pebbledash

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Everyone say\\\'s that pebbledash is difficult.
I believe it, but have to have a go! I figure if the spanish can do it, I can too?!
Big talk!!

Can someone please tell me what the exact ratio of sand and cement is supposed to be? :?:
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Do you mean wet or dry dashing...... dry being stones thrown onto render... wet, stones and render applied together.
If you are doing this in spain you will need to familiarise yourself with the local materials first as they will not be the same as in England.
 
Hi Legs,

Thanks for your quick response.

Actually, I would very much like the info. on both.

Traditionally in Spain, 85% of the walls build in this area are finished with a roughcast render. I've tried this with little success as most of the render either clumps in one place or just dos'nt stick and ends up on the ground.

My local supplier who is very large and serves the entire area, sells just about everything but have no product knowledge. One guy there told me that the gravel is only mixed with cement.Tried that, sticks to the wall ok but then cracks when it dries out. Another guy told me the mix is: 1 cement, 2 sand and 1 gravel and a fairly wet mix. Tried that. Dos,nt work.

I have a piece of the existing render. When you look at it the coating that the gravel were soaked in, it is exstreemly thin,Barely a millimeter. The gravel just seems to be suspended in it.

What are the magic formulars. Please tell me.

Any other tips would be greatly appreciated.
 
ive never heard of anyone putting the stones in with the mix unless they were making concrete, first mix 6-1 and scratch,second coat 4-1 flatten then dash the stones against the wall straight on. put a drop board below were your working to catch the ones that dont stick, then run your trowel lightly over the top to flatten.
 
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you have never done any rough casting or Harling then jbonding.
 
Can anybody out there please tell me what the sand-cement-gravel ratio is for Roughcast Rendering? The mix that is thrown on?
 
Ok Guys, this might help you out a bit


First of all theres 2 different types of casting (pebbledash/roughcast) whatever you may call it

drycast: Most importantly MAKE SURE ALL AREAS TO BE COVERED ARE FREE FROM DUST. you can you can use a powerwasher or simple garden hose, Now! this is done in either 2 or 3 coats normally

Firstly, is the are to be coated a smooth no pourous surface ie: concrete wall, Engineering brick (this will require a stipple coat/bonding coat) this can be done with a strong mix 1 cement to 1-1.5 course (concrete sand) add water to a almost running cosistence, cast this onto the wall with a casting trow or spray onto wall(PUMP) WAIT TILL COMPLETELY SET(depends on weather)

then you can apply a base/undercoat/bonding coat 1cement / 1 building /1 concrete sand

Before its set( touachable withought getting covered in it) use a scratching tool and scrath the coat horizontally (you canuse a scrathbrush, piece of mesh and many other things( dont scratch VERTICALLY)

Now to finish off a smoth finish you can apply a 10mm final coat with 1 cement / 1 finer building sand (concrete sand will cause the final floating of this to scratch whatyour trying to finish) Be carefull as too much water in final coat will cause cracks, this depens on the weather too along with many other aspects that could affect the final coat drying properly.

NOW! what we have all missed is the point that there is no additives to the mix (wont work, (will crack, willdry out dusty and will be very difficuilt to coat)

What you have to do is( add a PVA mixture to the mix,this depend how much is mixed at any given time, also add a plastisizer which willgive it a smooth working consistency


Ifyou have an existing,Block,Brick wall to coat out this can be done withone coat (scratched) and second coat left till starting to set and then a third coat or pebbles ie: pebbledash, (DRYCAST)

or

Second coat canhave the pebbles added during mixing and casted to the wall second and third coat at same time, this would alsobe casted using a casting trowel
 
we have just built an extension and we want to dash the walls with a 6mm stone my mate is a plasterer he has put a scratch coat on with plastsizer and he has then put another coat on which will be dry by tomorrow. now how does he attach the stones? we have hired a tyrolean gun????

please help!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
we have just built an extension and we want to dash the walls with a 6mm stone my mate is a plasterer he has put a scratch coat on with plastsizer and he has then put another coat on which will be dry by tomorrow. now how does he attach the stones? we have hired a tyrolean gun????

please help!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Dashing with 6mm chips,,,, not with a tyrolean gun anyway!!! You said he used a plasticiser in the scratch coat,,, but did he use a waterproofer too??? it's vital to use it in the scratch coat. I can't understand though, why he's put a scratch coat on, and then put on another coat today. Normally, with roughcasting/dry dash, you only need a scratch coat (one), then the top dashing coat. I could see the need for two coats if it was onto older walls, that might need a thicker coating here and there, to straighten it up a bit first, but with a new build, the walls shouldn't be that bad, so i'm a little confused with this second coat. What type of finish is on the wall with the second coat,,, scratched or floated/flat?
Anyway, back to your post, how do you get the 6mm stone chips onto the wall??
They are thrown/cast onto the wall, (into the top coat of wet render) using a harling trowel. A simple job to do, but like everything else it takes a lot of practice to get it right.
 
Thanks roughcaster.
i think he is planning on mixing the stone in with another mix of plastering sand and cement
any ideas or thoughts on what mix
 
is it possible to put a wet coat on with stones in to a dry base coat which i believe he has also scratched. also what do you mean by waterproofer? im so confused. this guy has rendered for me many times and the render has never cracked but he hasnt dashed for me.
 
Ahha,, know where you're coming from now Rusty. He's wet dashing. Ok,, you don't need waterproofer in the scratch coat for that. When it comes to the actual dashing, the wall is given a "light" dampen down, and then a thin coat of cement render is troweled onto the the scratch coat. This is the "wet" base for the actual wet dash to be cast onto. Wet dash is a slurry mix made up of sand, cement, lime, and small aggregate chips. It's similar to a small concrete. It is thrown onto the thin wet render coat, that is applied prior to dashing, with a harling/casting trowel. It is a harder job to do than dry dash, and if done incorrectly, (whipping), uneven application/spreading,, it will show up in the finished job.
For your information, waterproofer,, (a liquid render additive, mostly used in dry dash scratch coat, along with other cement finishes), holds the water in the render for longer, to allow the chips to be cast onto the wet rendered surface. If the surface dries out too quickly, the roughcast chips will bounce off of the render urface, rather than penetrate into the render itself.
With wet dash, you want/need suction (so no waterproofer) that way, the wet dash can be applied and draw in/absorb into the wall quicker, rather than staying overwet and becoming too heavy, and then slumping downwards/ splitting. Can be a tricky job to be honest, and not the most common of finishes nowadays, especially on new builds etc,,,, around here anyway,,, but keep us posted how you get on tomorrow.
 
Thanks again roughcaster it sounds like you know what we are doing even if we don't ha ha.

Well this mornings events went as well as yesterday badly. we put a 10mm gravel on a test patch to see what it looked like and the stones looked to big we decided it would take too long to pick the biggest ones out.

So. At Travis Perkins they sell a Limestone Spar which is 7mm. i had a look at them while i was there and they all seemed to be the same size. Im thinking of consistency. will this affect his mix as it has lime in it. or will this be ok.

i may also add he did the scratch and went on fine did the top coat which also went on fine an looks nice and flat. this was yesterday now so by tomorrow (which is the earliest time i can get the 7mm lime spar) the top coat will be dry.

will this mean the wet mix wont go on very well blimey this is well hard

any help would be most appreciated.
 
Thanks again roughcaster it sounds like you know what we are doing even if we don't ha ha.

Well this mornings events went as well as yesterday badly. we put a 10mm gravel on a test patch to see what it looked like and the stones looked to big we decided it would take too long to pick the biggest ones out.

So. At Travis Perkins they sell a Limestone Spar which is 7mm. i had a look at them while i was there and they all seemed to be the same size. Im thinking of consistency. will this affect his mix as it has lime in it. or will this be ok.

the scratch and went on fine, did the top coat which also went on fine an looks nice and flat.

will this mean the wet mix wont go on very well blimey this is well hard

any help would be most appreciated.

I can't make this out at all Rusty. :confused: You said "the scratch coat went on fine,,, did the top coat which also went on fine and looks nice and flat".

For wet dash, you only need the scratch coat, and then the wet dash slurry mix itself,,,,,, what is this "flat top coat" you're on about??? :confused:

All you need to do is scratch coat,,,,, let it dry out and cure for 2 or 3 days at least. Mix up the dashing, damp down/lightly wet the scratch coat, trowel a thin coat of render onto the scratch coat first,, then cast on your wet dash mix, onto the wet coat of render you have put on moments earlier.
I used small 6mm/7mm shingle, spar chippings or similar, in a wet dashing mix. Too big and it spoils the look of the texture.
 

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