Pipes, Joists & Floorboards

[Gummo]

Many years ago, I put down T&G floorboards in the bedroom. I've ripped up the carpet in the landing to continue T&G into the landing.

The problem is that, when I did the bedroom, I used a 190mm, plain board to avoid a joint over the pipes. It seemed a good idea at the time but, over time, traffic has created a crack in stages, length-wise along the 190mm board.

Any suggestions as to how I can fix this, firstly in the bedroom and then before I attempt the landing?

Floor

• Gummo
• 6 Oct 2019

 

[foxhole]

Why is crack a problem?

 

[Why Not Indeed]

I assume that he's ripped up the carpet because he wants the boards on show and thus seeing a crack is a problem.

As an aside, this is the second post I've seen today that just has

 

[bobasd]

lift the 190mm board and photo whats below it - sometimes its difficult to find floorboard fixing points due to notching for pipe runs.
note that in older houses the landing joists might run counter to the bedroom joists?

for me, most photos supplied on diynot are ok but i find this IMG business a problem.

 

[Gummo]

The joists run in the same direction on the entire floor. What you see in the landing is repeated in line right to the far end of the bedroom.

 

[stealthwolf]

The image has been hosted from the screwfix forum so unless you’re logged in there, you can’t see it. I’ve posted it below for OP:

 

[Gummo]

Thanks very much, stealthwolf - I don't know how I made the Screwfix connection. I've hopefully amended the original correctly.

 

[foxhole]

The pipe cut out is too large , you could strengthen with strip of steel plate notched into top of joists to support the wide board , or replace all boards with sheet of ply .

 

[bobasd]

thanks stealthwolf, i can let myself off the hook.

the notches are fine, and the "steel plate" will work but only if the plate doesn't compress the wrapped pipes?
you would probably have to drill the steel plate for getting a fixing to the joist.
i'm surprised that you OP are not getting creaking and ticking from any heating pipes in that unusual insulation wrapping? i cant see any clipping?

you could remove the cracked board and replace it with a ripping of, probably, 3/4" ply.
ply will sometimes stain up and match-in quite well esp after a period of traffic.
ply is also far stronger than the existing board or any modern T&G.

 

[Gummo]

"steel plate" will work but only if the plate doesn't compress the wrapped pipes?

Where would you get steel plate - what thickness?

i'm surprised that you OP are not getting creaking and ticking from any heating pipes in that unusual insulation wrapping?

Creaks all the time - I'm partial to a bit of creaking.

thanks stealthwolf, i can let myself off the hook.you could remove the cracked board and replace it with a ripping of, probably, 3/4" ply.

Is there such a ply that would resemble the patina of pine T&G boards? Wondering what I'd ask for locally.

 

[bsr]

I bought steel repair plates on Ebay when I had to do the same thing on my floor:

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/142739797705

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Where would you get steel plate - what thickness?

A heavy duty strap can be had from builders merchants, or even Tool Station (£3.30). This could be let-in (recessed into) the undersides of the replacement board(s) where required

Is there such a ply that would resemble the patina of pine T&G boards?

Not really. Softwood plywood is generally rotary cut and looks completely different to through and through sawn softwood boards

 

[Gummo]

This could be let-in (recessed into) the undersides of the replacement board(s) where required

I've realised that the pipes are too close to the top of the joists to allow anything to be recessed. Another forum has suggested these https://www.screwfix.com/p/sabrefix-hand-nail-plate-galvanised-dx275-150mm-x-75mm-25-pack/69215

They're only 1mm thick - the forum didn't stipulate whether to attach them to the joists or the underside of the wide floorboard where it meets a joist.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

I've realised that the pipes are too close to the top of the joists to allow anything to be recessed.

No, not recessed into the tops of the joists, recessed into the underside of the replacement board(s). 1mm thick will probably not be stiff enough IMHO