I'm just trying to learn a little about woodworking but I'm having problems with my plane. I only own a single plane (it's an Axminister No. 7). My problem is that when I try to use it, the blade is pushed back in relation to the breaker so that the breaker ends up in front of the blade. I think this might be happening because I put camellia oil on the blade after sharpening it and now that's preventing the friction between the blade and the breaker from keeping the two in place. If I remove the oil using ethanol, will this make it liable to rust?
Plane problem: blade slips in relation to breaker
- Thread starter ToolbeltDandy
- Start date
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The breaker I imagine is the cap iron? It needs to be secured a couple of mm from the edge of the blade, and the screw in the centre is tightened to allow this.
The cap iron has a slot which engages with a fulcrum operated by the thumb wheel - giving you the adjustment you need.
John
The cap iron has a slot which engages with a fulcrum operated by the thumb wheel - giving you the adjustment you need.
John
No oil, and keep your plane in a moisture free environment if that's possible.
Now if the plane or other steel tools are not regularly used, try spraying them with WD40 and allowing this to dry (hang the sprayed items in the sun to speed drying) this forms a dry to the touch, protective film coating which I've found only requires annual renewal...pinenot
Now if the plane or other steel tools are not regularly used, try spraying them with WD40 and allowing this to dry (hang the sprayed items in the sun to speed drying) this forms a dry to the touch, protective film coating which I've found only requires annual renewal...pinenot
I've never used an Axminster plane, but I'd assume they are a good quality tool. I always use an oilstone for sharpening, and so there is always a film of oil left on the blade. Never been a problem to me in the many thousands of times I've done it.
I'd guess that either you aren't tightening the cap iron enough, although it only really should be nipped up and I always use the lever cap to do it from habit. Set it back from the edge as burnerman says. Or it could be that you have the mouth set too small. Set the frog back some until you have a reasonable mouth that clears the shavings well. Set the blade to just show a "hair" of blade when you look down the sole from the front.
Incidentally, I'd want a smoothing plane as well as a try plane for general work. You may have read that the try plane is more accurate, and so it is, but really it's meant for shooting edges for jointing. A shorter plane, while less accurate, is a lot handier for general work, and for work on smaller pieces. A jack plane is the traditional general work plane, as in "jack of all trades"
I'd guess that either you aren't tightening the cap iron enough, although it only really should be nipped up and I always use the lever cap to do it from habit. Set it back from the edge as burnerman says. Or it could be that you have the mouth set too small. Set the frog back some until you have a reasonable mouth that clears the shavings well. Set the blade to just show a "hair" of blade when you look down the sole from the front.
Incidentally, I'd want a smoothing plane as well as a try plane for general work. You may have read that the try plane is more accurate, and so it is, but really it's meant for shooting edges for jointing. A shorter plane, while less accurate, is a lot handier for general work, and for work on smaller pieces. A jack plane is the traditional general work plane, as in "jack of all trades"
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If you have set the blade too deep or it's not sharp enough then it will jam in the timber and force it backwards.
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