Plaster disaster

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22 Sep 2010
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Hi all,

I've got a problem. I've decided to try and redo my own bathroom. Problem A....when I took of the tiles, there were older tiles underneath. And underneath those were strange concrete block tiles, that weren't square or flush with wall. So I decided to pull them off, which left my wall a horrible uneven concrete plaster stuff mess.

I need to tile this wall, and rehang a radiator onto it. And I'll need to do this to all the walls in the bathroom - as they all have this current design.

So, I figure my only option is to plaster it (which I'm rubbish at). Do I use bonding, or onecoat? Remember that there are deep holes in the wall. I'm also concerned that my bathroom will be out of action for ages as I need the plaster to dry before I tile.

I'd rather use Aqua panel, but there are no studs to attach it too. Can I attach Aquapanel directly onto masonry?

Stuck. Panicking
 
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You can fix aquapanel to the wall with dabs and then mechanical fixings through the dabs, once set. this will be a far superior job to plastering as gypsum plaster is not the best background to tile onto.

You could also counter batten the wall first and screw the aqua panel to that. This creates a handy little void to conceal pipes :)
 
Aquapanel is expensive. Use it in the areas that get wet (shower area) - but in areas that don't get wet use green plasterboard.
 
Ok. Sounds promising! What are mechanical fixings? I'm guessing dabs are glue - any particular glue? The area where the tiles have come away is very bad - big chunks out of it and none of it is square with the upper wall. Should I plaster in the holes to try and give some area to glue onto?

I don't think I can counter batten, as the wall has a door and the plasterboard would end up overlapping.

When you say green plasterboard - do you mean standard plasterboard?
 
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No. It's moisture resistant plasterboard. You get it at builders merchants.

If you get a big bag of plasterboard adhesive (about £6) you can use it to fill the divots and get it reasonably smooth before you dot and dab.
 
How many mechanical fixings will I need. Do I do them around the outside of the board as you would a normal piece of plasterboard when fixing to studs? Or less. Remembering I want to tile over - so don't want any to pop.

Thanks
 

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