Plasterboarding steal beam

[superjcviskgvf]

I'm currently in the process of covering up a steal beam but I've seen mixed ideas online about the best way to fit the bottom plasterboard.

I've only got as far as putting in the battens flush fitted with 400mm centers apart. I have the fire/pink plasterboard so believe regulations say it only needs to be one layer as opposed to two I'd it's normal plasterboard

Is it safest to use a water based grip fill for the bottom, or use wood on the sides so that I can screw drywall screws through the plasterboard and into the wood?

Another option I saw was using some sort of bracket so it would rightly hold the plasterboard to the steal beam.

I just want to make sure I do it correctly following the correct process so I don't find out later on that I messed up!

Any confirmation or assistance is greatly appreciated

 

[^woody^]

Mechanical fixing. Anything adhered will fall off in a fire.

 

[russellsmiler]

fix mechanically 12 or 18mm ply to undeside of beam and drywall screw plasteboard to this!! (assuming you can lose that minimal headroom)

 

[noseall]

I'm currently in the process of covering up a steal beam but I've seen mixed ideas online about the best way to fit the bottom plasterboard.

I've only got as far as putting in the battens flush fitted with 400mm centers apart. I have the fire/pink plasterboard so believe regulations say it only needs to be one layer as opposed to two I'd it's normal plasterboard

Is it safest to use a water based grip fill for the bottom, or use wood on the sides so that I can screw drywall screws through the plasterboard and into the wood?

Another option I saw was using some sort of bracket so it would rightly hold the plasterboard to the steal beam.

I just want to make sure I do it correctly following the correct process so I don't find out later on that I messed up!

Any confirmation or assistance is greatly appreciated

We use the connecting bolts to secure filler timbers, by deliberately leaving the studs long.....

woodfill4.jpg

• noseall
• 28 Feb 2024

woodfill3.jpg

• noseall
• 28 Feb 2024

woodfill2.jpg

• noseall
• 28 Feb 2024

woodfill1.jpg

• noseall
• 28 Feb 2024

Or have the beam drilled and fix a timber into the web....

wodfill5.jpg

• noseall
• 28 Feb 2024

 

[superjcviskgvf]

Appreciate the responses, appears I may have started off completely wrong. I had looked at various YouTube videos and what I've done is how they did but perhaps not allowed now

I should have mentioned this is within my house so not a business or anything (dunno if that changes things mind)

 

[thomp1983]

Add a bit of tile batten to each of this wooden noggins they will then overhang the bottom of the lintel and you'll be able to screw up into them, unless you were planning on having a flush finish on the left hand wall?

 

[superjcviskgvf]

Id prefer it to be flush as in the first picture the plasterboard is missing all the way across though if it protruded a little I don't think it would look disastrous.

I did see you can add wood (sorry I'm not great at the correct wording) across the top and bottom of the battens so the bottom plasterboard can be screwed but in my head wont the wood have to be pretty thick (or would tou screw at an angle the full length to make it unmovable)

 

[phatboy]

I used some Gypwall steel angles (Well, it was actually Knauf GA1), and screwed the plasterboard through (fine thread screws essential). Few spots of Sticks Like on the bottom of the steel, just to make sure it didn't move at all. Worked fine.

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

PB or fire boards should be fixed with steel angles to steel beams or fixed to each other with suitable fixings, anything else does not conform to the manufacturers (or specifically) to the fire test certificate requirements. But you all carry on with your traditional timber and glue and whatnot because you've been doing it that way for donkeys.

 

[superjcviskgvf]

Does the building regulations say you must use steel angles for steel beams? Or is more that extra fire measures? I just want to ensure I do it right so everything gets approved/hunky dory.

I'm assuming that's best even if I wanted to cover the steel beam in a wider area? I.e. I didn't cover the beam right up close (covering it so its in line with rest of the wall)

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

The building regs merely state how much fire protection is required eg 30mins, it's the product manufacturer's who dictate how their products must be fixed, in order to achieve the necessary protection. It's already been mentioned how boards should be fixed to steel beams, look it up on the BG or Knauff websites.

 

[noseall]

Does the building regulations say you must use steel angles for steel beams?

No. It says to give 1/2 hour fire protection.

I've seen some of the Knauf nogging fixing stuff and it's gash.....

Flimsy. I wouldn't have it my house. As for metal studs, garbage....

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

Jesus Christ what a dinosaur, yet that's exactly what is done in countless situations all the time and works just fine along with the metal angle methods and has been proven effective in a fire test but you carry on with timber lash ups. Yee-haw.