Plastering / best way forward

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Hi there

I'm a newbie to the forum, and a relative newbie to DIY. My partner and I are currently renovating our house - we've just had a damp proof in the lounge and dining room after damp due to to rotting joists (naturally, joists replaced too).

We are left with the walls back to bare brick, but only about a meter up the wall. From a meter upwards, it's plastered. there are various other patches where there is no plaster, for example in in thh doorway we took down a useless entrance porch that did nothing but stop us from being able to get furniture in and out. Some of the remaining plaster (on at least two full walls) is sound but in other parts it's absolutely shot - barely touching the wall in parts.

We like to do as much of the work ourselves - we are no experts but have laid flooring, skirting, tiled, removed plaster, knocked walls down, lifted floors, done a little bit of plumbing, removed copper pipes, little bit of basic joinery (to give you an idea of our skillset, or lack therefore, depending on your opinion).

So my questions are as follows:
- we're pretty set on overboarding the ceiling ourself. We want to get rid of the artex, and one of the current board has a hole in it from a leak last year. Is it better to take the existing ceiling down first or board over the top?
- regarding the walls, we were thinknig of the possibility boarding them ourself and getting someone in to skim. Would it be better to remove all of the plaster regardless or the condition and dot and dab the wall?
- can you dot and dab over exisiting plaster?
- can you dot and dab the lower part of the wall only, on the walls where the plaster has been removed for damp proofing but the plaste above is actualy pretty solid? And what about the seams?

I hope I've given enough information for some advice on it.

Thanks

Kate
 
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Overboard the ceiling, don't take it down, much easier and less mess and waste. Use a chalk line to mark joists
If you've had damp work done did the damp firm not tell you bottom part of the walls need solid render or dri coat plaster, never seen damp work being OK for dabbing before.
 

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