Plastic pipes

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Hi,

Just about to order parts for moving rads and redirecting hot and cold water.

I'm considering using plastic piping and connectors for out of sight areas, are they good enough long term, will they leak, will fittings connect OK onto existing copper, do they grip OK on copper.

Any thoughts

p.s. 15mm pipe, not microbore
 
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I use plastic pipes and fittings all the time where they will not be seen such as across lofts etc. Buy good quality pipe and fittings such as John Guest Speedfit and I can't see that they will be any problem so long as they are fitted correctly. Speedfit make push fit fittings with locking nuts for extra security. For cutting plastic pipe invest in some pipe shears which cut the pipe perfectly square. Do not use a hacksaw. Plastic fittings grip copper pipe perfectly well. Where plastic pipe needs to be connected to a standard compression fitting use pipe inserts.
 
Where plastic pipe needs to be connected to a standard compression fitting use pipe inserts

Use pipe inserts at ALL connections

Just had to pressure test a first fix job and POLYPIPE was used. They recommend a test pressure of 18 Bar for 15 mins.....................................YES you read that right...............18 Bar.

Return fire expected imminently!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
18 BAR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :eek:

They can recommend all they like, have order parts and inserts, will do the job, check joints after a while, if they aint leaking thats it, Job Done

My system will never see 18 BAR and I'd worry about the integrity of any system that had seen 18 BAR.

Anyway, I appreciate you reply :LOL:
 
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blimey i thought the requirement was to test pipework to twice the pressure that it is expected to carry (water regs and all that)

thats a heck of a test sheesh

no fire from here if thats what they wont etc
 
18 BAR

Thats what polypipe recommend, irang them to check.

Sorry if u misunderstood i meant return fire from iraq when the fittings blew off!!!!!!!!!!!!

They actually passed the test!!!!!!!!

Well thats building control and architects for you.
 
Don't try that with the water at the high limit thermostat setting!

At least you can be sure the grip-rings on the connectors will be nicely dug in.
 
Went to a sales show by Hepworth, they put their pipe through its paces. Pressure tested pipe and fittings. they got to 30bar before water eventually appeared, what surprised me was the fitting never leaked cos the pipe fractured before it got to that stage. :eek:
 
lcgs said:
what surprised me was the fitting never leaked cos the pipe fractured before it got to that stage. :eek:
I'm not in the least bit surprised - why would it leak? :evil:
 
Successful pressure test using very excessive pressures just illustrate that O-ring seals work best at high pressure!

The advantages of putting high pressure into a new system are:
- it ensures that the O rings are well and truly pushed into position,
- the teeth on the grab ring are well-embedded into the pipe.

BUT even if the joint is perfect at high pressure, it may still leak at low pressure. You will notice that when pushfit is pressurised, the pipework 'kicks' as the pressure tries to straighten bends. This has caused me problems in the past: a bend that was a bit tight stressed the nearest joint so that it leaked water out at low pressure and admitted air under suction.

(in fact, I believe several of the pushfit brands' joints will admit air under suction, without any stress on the joints.)
 
The other point about plastic pipe and fittings is that they are far more vulnerable to failure at high temperatures. I've has instances where push-fit joints where the the pipe insert was missing are fine at high pressures with cold water but fail when hot since it seems that the pipe can then deform and slip out of the grab ring.
 
croydoncorgi said:
Successful pressure test using very excessive pressures just illustrate that O-ring seals work best at high pressure!
Are you saying the force presented by water against the seal between O ring and pipe acts to increase the effectiveness of that seal? If so, then I find that theory rather odd.

croydoncorgi said:
The advantages of putting high pressure into a new system are:
- it ensures that the O rings are well and truly pushed into position
I don't know which brands you include in this postulate, but Hep2o O rings are held in the position they're designed to be in, and don't "move".

croydoncorgi said:
...- the teeth on the grab ring are well-embedded into the pipe.
This would be irrelevant if the installer was thorough in pulling the fitting towards the end of the pipe to (a) ensure that the grab ring teeth were engaged and (b) discover a faulty grap ring before running water through the fitting.

croydoncorgi said:
You will notice that when pushfit is pressurised, the pipework 'kicks' as the pressure tries to straighten bends.
I assume you mean plastic pipe, rather than "pushfit".

croydoncorgi said:
This has caused me problems in the past: a bend that was a bit tight stressed the nearest joint so that it leaked water out at low pressure and admitted air under suction.
Simple answer - install it properly such that it isn't tight or stressed under no/low pressure.

croydoncorgi said:
(in fact, I believe several of the pushfit brands' joints will admit air under suction, without any stress on the joints.)
Which brands? What are your grounds for this "belief"?

chrishutt said:
The other point about plastic pipe and fittings is that they are far more vulnerable to failure at high temperatures. I've has instances where push-fit joints where the the pipe insert was missing are fine at high pressures with cold water but fail when hot since it seems that the pipe can then deform and slip out of the grab ring.
Yeah, but no, but yeah, but no, but, but that's an installation fault.

Simple answer - don't install pushfit fittings and/or plastic pipework incorrectly. In fact, it might be seen as a groundbreaking idea, don't install anything incorrectly. ;)
 
Are you saying the force presented by water against the seal between O ring and pipe acts to increase the effectiveness of that seal? If so, then I find that theory rather odd.

No.
The force of the fluid on the O ring pushes it ALONG the pipe towards the 'low pressure' end (ie. where the pipe enters the area of the joint where the O ring is). The pressure has the effect of centering the pipe (overcoming any side-force) and making sure the ring is not sitting at an angle on the pipe. Depending on the joint design, there may be a flat end for the O ring to push against (Hep2O) or not (Speedfit). I don't know whether the O ring housing is exactly cylindrical or slightly tapered towards the open end of the joint (but it would make logical sense if it tapered, to tighten the ring against the pipe). If you've ever tried to remove a pushfit joint under pressure, I think you'll have to agree that there IS a powerful force acting to tighten the ring onto the pipe that is not there at zero pressure. At mains pressure, you probably couldn't move the O ring along the pipe enough to release the collet on a Speedfit joint. OK - the pipe may expand too - but presumably not by much or the insert would serve no purpose.

Simple answer - install it properly such that it isn't tight or stressed under no/low pressure
Much of the point of using plastic pipe is that it DOES bend. Always keeping bend radii out of the 'too much' zone is easier to say than to do! Also, some manufacturers provide metal 'bend formers' to hold plastic pipe in a regular bend at specific radius (which is tighter than I'd tend to use). Point is that in the real world a 'free' bend may not be exactly regular, so there's more side-force on the joint at one end than at the other (pipe against ceiling, wall, obstructions, other pipes, etc..).

Which brands? What are your grounds for this "belief"?
A CH system in an apartment with 'drops' from main Flow and Return pipes in 22mm Speedfit in the loft immediately above. What happened was a fault (on the combi boiler PRV) would gradually drop the system pressure to just above the cut-out point on the boiler. The boiler would start in CH mode and all of a sudden the boiler pump would be full of air. The pump created a pressure difference across the Flow and Return that reduced the pressure in one (or more)of the joints in the loft to the point where it admitted air. And no, it was NOT the AAV inside the boiler letting the air in: that's on the high-pressure side of the pump! So long as all the joints were kept at an over-pressure relative to atmospheric: no problem.
 
croydoncorgi said:
The force of the fluid on the O ring pushes it ALONG the pipe towards the 'low pressure' end (ie. where the pipe enters the area of the joint where the O ring is).
Perhaps on JG, but AFAIK not on Polypipe, and certainly on Hep2o.

The pressure has the effect of centering the pipe (overcoming any side-force) and making sure the ring is not sitting at an angle on the pipe.
Focussing on Hep2o, which is more familiar to me than the other brands of pushfit, the thing you describe just isn't possible, because the end of the pipe is held in place, laterally, by a well inside the fitting, beyond the O ring seal, and the O ring has only negligible movement along the axis of the pipe centre.

Depending on the joint design, there may be a flat end for the O ring to push against (Hep2O) or not (Speedfit).
I still don't see why you think that there's a force acting to push the O ring along the pipe.

I don't know whether the O ring housing is exactly cylindrical or slightly tapered towards the open end of the joint (but it would make logical sense if it tapered, to tighten the ring against the pipe).
That, to me, would be an illogical design, verging on the appalling. I've never seen any O ring joint where the mating parts are tapered, and I imagine that this is because you can't force an O ring to have a smaller internal diameter. To do so would pucker it and result in a leak.

If you've ever tried to remove a pushfit joint under pressure, I think you'll have to agree that there IS a powerful force acting to tighten the ring onto the pipe that is not there at zero pressure.
You're right - I do agree. But my understanding of the cause is different to yours. The pressure of fluid within a pipe acts in the direction of forcing the pipe out of a fitting. The result of this is to draw the teeth of the grab ring inwards, which increases the force of the teeth cutting into the wall of the pipe.

Simple answer - install it properly such that it isn't tight or stressed under no/low pressure
Much of the point of using plastic pipe is that it DOES bend. Always keeping bend radii out of the 'too much' zone is easier to say than to do!
I wholly disagree - it's very easy to do, by clipping the pipe near each fitting. This eliminates the undesirable shearing force at the entrypoint to the fitting. You don't even need to keep coiled pipe straight - just let it settle where it wants to be and clip it there.

The pump created a pressure difference across the Flow and Return that reduced the pressure in one (or more)of the joints in the loft to the point where it admitted air.
Intriguing. Which edition of Speedfit fitting was it? If the new locking type, then was it locked to reduce (or even prevent) pipe movement? And were the best type of inserts used, the ones with the O rings on the internal pipe wall? Or, if the previous type of fitting, was a collet clip fitted?

I take your point, if I've interpreted it correctly, that the effect of heat, pipe expansion, fluid pressure and general movement all conspire to increase the risk of a leak, but my point is that it's never safe to allow oneself to be lazy with plastic and pushfit in the belief that it's a doddle to assemble. Just as with any type of fitting, it responds to careful handling of materials, sensible design of installation, and correct deployment and fitting. There's always an optimum way to use it, depending on the circumstances, but a great many more crap and incompetent ways.
 

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