Please help. Why will no one do this job?

r_c

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I hope someone can help me, and point me in the right direction. I have been trying to get someone to do some property maintenance, but no one wants to do it. Can you please help me find someone to do this job.

I have a 1930s house with a empty cavity wall. I want cavity wall insulation. The cavity wall people came along, drilled an inspection hole in the brickwork, stuck an inspection camera in and noticed that there were a couple of brings on the inside skin that were protruding. (We think maybe they had been pushed back when someone put in an electrical socket.) The bricks were not bridging the cavity but Mr Cavity Wall Man said that he wouldn't do the job. The cavity had to be clear. No excuses.

So, I bought a similar camera to his off eBay and drilled a few more holes around the house and noticed there were a few placed were there was the odd broken brick lodged between the cavity.

I thought it would be easy to get hold of a bricklayer and get them to remove the odd brick, reach in a remove the broken bricks, and also find a way to fix the protruding bricks that Mr Cavity Wall Man found. I'm just a layman but it does not seem too hard for someone skilled with bricks to do this. It is beyond my DIY skill level. I am not too fussed about matching the lime mortar colour, as once the cavity wall insulation is done I intend to re-point (the lime mortar is very dry). I have about 7 spare bricks, but I am pretty sure the existing ones can be reused - the mortar is so dry that you just need a screwdriver to scrape it away.

But no one wants to do the work. I've said I don't mind paying an extra day if it takes longer than 2, and don't mind paying per day.

A few people have come round, are very polite and seem interested. But then when I follow up they are not interested (although they never say this it is clear).

I am a bit weary about going down the Trust-A-Trader route, but may have to give it a go.

Can you please tell me how I need to 'sell' this to a tradesman. Do I just search for a bricklayer in my area? How can I get someone to do this work?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
 
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Post job on my builder website.
Just pick two trades from the ones that show an interest from your description.
Get both to come look and ask for written estimate.
Pick one
Book in

It's a bricklayer/general builder job. Just take your best guess when posting as free. See what happens.
 
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I put the job on the site and luckily found a suitable person to do the job, which they did a couple of days later. Many thanks @Wayners for the suggestion.
 
A 1930's house is probably not suitable for cavity wall insulation. Friend No1 now has damp after having CWI 3-4 years ago., Friend No2 has just had theirs removed for the same reason.

Cavity walls are designed to allow water to run down the inside face of the outer skin, which is why we have drip points on cavity ties, cavity trays over windows, weep vents etc. Wet insulation will conduct heat away faster than an air gap. Just don't do it!
 
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From a thermal point of view external insulation is the most efficient, BUT then you may have issues with the eaves and keeping it looking tidy and watertight on the outside is often a problem. If you insulate on the inside, then the rooms get slightly smaller, and you still have to consider moisture control and have suitable membranes in place as required
 
A 1930's house is probably not suitable for cavity wall insulation. Friend No1 now has damp after having CWI 3-4 years ago., Friend No2 has just had theirs removed for the same reason.

Cavity walls are designed to allow water to run down the inside face of the outer skin, which is why we have drip points on cavity ties, cavity trays over windows, weep vents etc. Wet insulation will conduct heat away faster than an air gap. Just don't do it!
Good point - a family member working for a remedial company is removing CWI that the co. put in 10 years ago (white wool like stuff) for the Local Authority. Replacing with beads . Houses c.30's to 50's
 
Replacing with beads
Well I have been told that after a few years the beads turn into mush and fall down the cavity into a heap of mush. I don't know who to believe.
 
Good point - a family member working for a remedial company is removing CWI that the co. put in 10 years ago (white wool like stuff) for the Local Authority. Replacing with beads . Houses c.30's to 50's

Does this family memeber also do plastering? ;)

Andy
 
A 1930's house is probably not suitable for cavity wall insulation. Friend No1 now has damp after having CWI 3-4 years ago., Friend No2 has just had theirs removed for the same reason.

Cavity walls are designed to allow water to run down the inside face of the outer skin, which is why we have drip points on cavity ties, cavity trays over windows, weep vents etc. Wet insulation will conduct heat away faster than an air gap. Just don't do it!
Are you suggesting that cavity wall insulation is a problem full stop, regardless of whether it is a new build or not? I ask because the house across the road is being built, and the cavities are being filled with thick wads of what look like regular rock wool (to a layman like me it just looks like loft insulation - no silver foil and not rigid). I cant see a huge difference between insulating this way and blowing/injecting rock wool insulation. What am I not considering?
 
You are right but the market and products used for each (ie new build & retro fit insulation) is different and the products different too. The (retro fit) industry has pulled it's socks up in the last few years or so, the initial survey should (in theory) be more detailed and consider various factors to avoid screwing things up down the line, there is also a whole industry that has sprung up in removing insulation where it has either failed or made the property worse. With respect to new build recent changes to the Building Regulations and other legislation with respect to heat loss and fire has also created more products suitable for full fill insulation. I've lived in two property's where insulation was retro installed (not by me), one an early 1900's terrace and now one built around 1950's both have been OK.
 
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I've lived in two property's where insulation was retro installed (not by me), one an early 1900's terrace and now one built around 1950's both have been OK.

Sorry, not doubting you (honestly).

As a Londoner, I have no first hand experience of a 1900's or 1950's property with a cavity.

Pretty much all of the properties from that time frame that I have worked in are solid walls.

The 1900's properties are 9" walls will a couple of inches of plaster. Where I live at the moment is a 1950's pseudo art deco- the walls are 9" but rendered with cinder blocks on the internals.

I have no experience of working in houses from either period outside of west London.
 
Main difference between built in insulation and retro fit is the latter completely fills the cavity so bridges it whereas the former still has a break between it and the outside walls
 

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