Plumbing discussion about repressurising FAQ

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1) REPRESSURISING THE PRESSURE VESSEL

NB, Pressure Vessel = Expansion Vessel.

Turn the boiler off at the mains.

Find the PV valve, which looks like a car tyre valve with just a threaded part sticking out. The PV is often red. They can usually be accessed from the top of the boiler or behind the front drop-panel. Some boilers such as Ravenheat can be impossible to access!

If water comes out when you press the central pin, you need a new PV :cry:
Find a drain cock. DO NOT use the pressure relief valve, or it'll leak afterwards.
Drain enough water from the system to drop the water pressure as read on the boiler gauge, to Zero. Close the drain cock.

Use any (eg car or bike) air pump to pump up the PV to eg 10 psi (0.7 bar).
Some boiler instructions might give slightly different figures. It isn't critical.

Remove and refit your pump to see how much the pressure drops when you remove it and inevitably lose some air.
If the pump doesn't have a built in gauge, pump it up a bit high, then keep taking readings with a push-on gauge. Every time you do, the pressure will drop a bit.

It's important that you don't rely on the reading as you pump into a "closed" system - as it starts to pressurise it'll give you a meaningless reading.

When you get to 10psi, undo your drain cock again. If there was still water in the PV, your air pressure will force it out. If that happens, recheck the pressure and pump more, and repeat until unding the drain cock doesn't give you a spurt of water. You can now rely on your air pressure reading.

The PV may be say 10 litres. If it was full of water you have to displace all of that water from the system side, by your pumping up the air in the vessel. That's a whole bucket of water!

Fill the boiler water back up to 1 bar pressure, slowly, and switch the boiler back on.

The air shouldn't be able to get into the radiator system because of the rubber diaphragm in the PV.
If you bleed your radiators, you will have to top up the water in the boiler via the filling loop, but not the air.


DO NOT let water into a hot boiler. Let it cool first.

DO NOT let water in too quickly. 20 seconds for 0.5 to 1 bar should be OK.

DO NOT take the water pressure above 1.5 bar- even if the system is warm as the switch may have stuck.

DO NOT allow the water pressure to go too high when refilling Turn it off early to see if the gauge keeps rising a bit.

NEVER use the Pressure Relief Valve to let water out of a system – it will leak afterwards!

If the pressure relief valve was leaking before you repressurised the PV, it will probably continue to do so and need replacing.

PressureVessels1.gif

The expansion vessel diagrams shown here are incorrect. As shown it would not be possible to purge air from the water side of the diapragm when fitting a new one. (there is no "bleed valve" on the water side). The schrader valve is in fact connected essentialy to a rubber balloon which is deflated with xero air pressure and becomes inflated as the pressure is pumped up.

lukewarmbath
 
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As shown it would not be possible to purge air from the water side of the diapragm when fitting a new one. .

Fitting a new what? diaphram :confused: ..............not necessary to purge air from the wet side of expansion vessel upon system refill due to the diaphram being fully inflated.

That picture shows the position of diaphram with system up & running , with no pressure in system the diaphram will completely fill the vessel on all sides , some air would be introduced into vessel due to the air trapped between system pipework & vessel , some will crack the union @ vessel upon refill to eliminate the air , pretty negligible in any case.
 
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If you buy a new EV, you pressurise it with air to the required pressure before fitting, and as the water side is empty at that time, the diaphragm effectively is pressed up to the water side connection anyway. The tiny bit of residual air left in there can be ignored. Thats how I understand it, anyway!
John :)
 
have you ever cut an old one in half and looked inside? (I have)
Not one, several!

The sketch I drew, the pictures are from catalogues.

Expansion vessels in boilers are generally as I've sketched. Ones for Potable water generally have rubber "bags" in them. But it doesn't matter from a usage point of view.
In a boiler there's never a way to purge the water side.
 
...As shown it would not be possible to purge air from the water side of the diapragm when fitting a new one. (there is no "bleed valve" on the water side)....
:confused:
Why would you need to purge the water from an ev when you pump it up?
 
...As shown it would not be possible to purge air from the water side of the diapragm when fitting a new one. (there is no "bleed valve" on the water side)....
:confused:
Why would you need to purge the water from an ev when you pump it up?

He thinks the pipe or hose leading to the vessel should purged or it creates a dead leg :rolleyes:
 
lets just wonder why some one would ask such stupid question since he ment to be an expert ;)
 

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