Plyboard - Expensive?
- Thread starter cox377
- Start date
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The last time I bought 6mm ply it cost £10 a sheet for 8x4s.
Might be worth contacting a local timber merchant, might save yourself £5-10.
Might be worth contacting a local timber merchant, might save yourself £5-10.
its a very good price to a private customer, is it ordinary ply or wbp ?
why 12mm ?
why 12mm ?
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WBP for private.
I went with 12mm to try and get a good height to strength ratio. Trying to minimise the step
Sorry what does that mean?
You must use WBP, ordinary ply isn’t suitable for tiling onto.
I assume you’re over boarding existing floor & not replacing it
i think the poibt Richard is trying to clear up is ARE you overboarding or are you replacing the original floor, in which case your ply is way to thin
Hello guys, I didn't actually get the board down until yesterday believe it or not.. so where was the rush you may ask ! Anyway, I've just been reading about what's needed for tiling onto Ply and noticed a post about notches in the ply and how the adhesive reacts with it, the post suggested that WBP doesnt have notches. I bought this from wickes
http://www.wickes.co.uk/Exterior-Plywood/invt/110116
and it has notices
Can anyone advise?
Thank CoXen
! Anyway, I've just been reading about what's needed for tiling onto Ply and noticed a post about notches in the ply and how the adhesive reacts with it, the post suggested that WBP doesnt have notches. I bought this from wickeshttp://www.wickes.co.uk/Exterior-Plywood/invt/110116
and it has notices
Can anyone advise?
Thank CoXen
What do you mean by notches/notices ? Do you mean knots in the surface veneer? Did you read that on this Tiling forum? If it’s WBP then I’ve never known flexy cement powder addy to affect it.
I would also advise you screw fix every 150mm through the overboard into the joists (check for pipe & cables first) & not just into the top of the original floor boards; ideally support any joins along the centre of joists. Seal the underside (not the tiling face) & edges with an acrylic primer before laying.
? Do you mean knots in the surface veneer? Did you read that on this Tiling forum? If it’s WBP then I’ve never known flexy cement powder addy to affect it. I would also advise you screw fix every 150mm through the overboard into the joists (check for pipe & cables first) & not just into the top of the original floor boards; ideally support any joins along the centre of joists. Seal the underside (not the tiling face) & edges with an acrylic primer before laying.
It was on a tiling forum, I meant knots, not notches. I've laid the ply already and drilled about every 100 on the joist lines. Going to add some futher noggins below and drill horizontially as well.
Just trying to find a well price adhesive and grout for the job now
Just trying to find a well price adhesive and grout for the job now
Use only quality trade addy & grout suitable for your type of tiles; BAL, Mapei (not the stuff sold in B&Q though), Webber, Ardex etc. Be warned, you generally get what you pay for with this stuff; avoid cheapo DIY products, they are generally crap & cheap becomes very expensive when it fails! You can get good discounts if you shop around & negotiate or, if you’ve a large enough order to offset any delivery charges, buy on-line.Just trying to find a well price adhesive and grout for the job now
Be sure to read the Tiling sticky & THIS forum archive posts which will help you avoid making mistakes. There are other tiling forums giving good advice but there is also some pretty crap advice out there as well! This forum has several good pro tillers on hand who can advise you.
Did you seal the back & edges of the ply?
Just had a good read through the sticky.
Been looking at Bal, profix and Palace multiflex.
I stupidly didnt seal the bottom of the ply, I can however still get to the edges. I was going to seal the edges with a silicon between the wall and the board.
Been looking at Bal, profix and Palace multiflex.
I stupidly didnt seal the bottom of the ply, I can however still get to the edges. I was going to seal the edges with a silicon between the wall and the board.
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