Hi,
I have a fault with a Potterton Suprima HE80 and I could do with some help.
It has developed a number of lock faults over the past 2 years or so, the fixes the boiler has needed so far are,
Air pressure switch tube had melted through - new vacuum tube fitted
Failed to ignite - new spark electrode
Fan failed - new fan fitted
These faults did not clear with a reset, only when the new parts were fitted.
I took the cover off the failed old fan, to see what may have caused the failure, I suspected water damage, but there was no obvious signs of water ingress or blown electrical parts.
The boiler then has started to fail with an ignition failure lockout, the flame comes on, but goes out three times then the boiler locks out.
The boiler has had a new spark igniter due to the fact it had a cracked plastic case. Also a new flame sensor, and the gap is set to 4mm as per the spec.
Still the boiler locks out, but only when the boiler is very cold, ie, after a hard frost outside the boiler fails to ignite in the morning.
The wiring to the flame sensor seems good, but the rubber around the spade connector is a little cracked and brittle. The system has good water pressure and works fine once it is going. The earth connection to the flame sensor is good, measures as no resistance to earth.
If you reset the boiler it starts up 99% of the time with no issues.
There is no frost stat connected to the boiler, it is in the kitchen of the house, although the kitchen does get cold.
The condensate pipe is clear, and connected internally to the kitchen soil pipe.
The flue connector from the fan was badly fitted by the original installer, this was corrected, but means the internal parts of the boiler do have a light coating of rust here and there on the exchangers.
One point to note, the kitchens rad, as does the whole bottom floor of the house turns off around 6pm, so by 8pm on a cold night the kitchen is quite cold. The whole system shuts down around 8pm each night, so by 5am next morning it has had a fair few hours to cool down.
I am loathed to swap the PCB, as generally the suprima HE PCBs don't go faulty, and the cost of the PCB is not easy to swallow if it does not fix the issue. The boiler in wall mounted in a kitchen cupboard with a vertical flue.
Any suggestions? Or should I go with the PCB swap?
Thanks in advance,
Neil
I have a fault with a Potterton Suprima HE80 and I could do with some help.
It has developed a number of lock faults over the past 2 years or so, the fixes the boiler has needed so far are,
Air pressure switch tube had melted through - new vacuum tube fitted
Failed to ignite - new spark electrode
Fan failed - new fan fitted
These faults did not clear with a reset, only when the new parts were fitted.
I took the cover off the failed old fan, to see what may have caused the failure, I suspected water damage, but there was no obvious signs of water ingress or blown electrical parts.
The boiler then has started to fail with an ignition failure lockout, the flame comes on, but goes out three times then the boiler locks out.
The boiler has had a new spark igniter due to the fact it had a cracked plastic case. Also a new flame sensor, and the gap is set to 4mm as per the spec.
Still the boiler locks out, but only when the boiler is very cold, ie, after a hard frost outside the boiler fails to ignite in the morning.
The wiring to the flame sensor seems good, but the rubber around the spade connector is a little cracked and brittle. The system has good water pressure and works fine once it is going. The earth connection to the flame sensor is good, measures as no resistance to earth.
If you reset the boiler it starts up 99% of the time with no issues.
There is no frost stat connected to the boiler, it is in the kitchen of the house, although the kitchen does get cold.
The condensate pipe is clear, and connected internally to the kitchen soil pipe.
The flue connector from the fan was badly fitted by the original installer, this was corrected, but means the internal parts of the boiler do have a light coating of rust here and there on the exchangers.
One point to note, the kitchens rad, as does the whole bottom floor of the house turns off around 6pm, so by 8pm on a cold night the kitchen is quite cold. The whole system shuts down around 8pm each night, so by 5am next morning it has had a fair few hours to cool down.
I am loathed to swap the PCB, as generally the suprima HE PCBs don't go faulty, and the cost of the PCB is not easy to swallow if it does not fix the issue. The boiler in wall mounted in a kitchen cupboard with a vertical flue.
Any suggestions? Or should I go with the PCB swap?
Thanks in advance,
Neil
