potterton neataheat 10/16 fault

[10stb]

Hi guys

Have an intermittent problem with my Potterton Neataheat 10/16 Electonic gas boiler.

I believe that it was the original boiler installed when the house was built in 1988 (making it 30 years old).

It has been a great boiler and has been serviced annually since I bought the house 10 years ago.

The fault is this;

Occasionally the boiler will not fire up. The fan would be running and the pilot sparking but no flame.
If I turn the boiler controller off for 10 minutes and then turn it back on the fan kicks in, the pilot sparks and then theres the loud click as the gas valve opens and then it fires up.

The boiler will be fine for a while and then maybe a couple of days later we're back to the fan running, pilot clicking, boiler not firing up scenario.

My Corgi registered heating engineer thought the it maybe an intermittent fault with the gas valve or pcb but wouldn't be able to test until the fault re-occurred.

He said that a reading on my test meter between T2 and T3 next time the fault occurred meant a faulty valve and no reading indicated a faulty pcb.

I found that there was a reading so this would presumably mean a faulty gas valve.

He and I have tried to source a new valve but have been told that it is obsolete. I have scoured to web but found nothing.

Potterton part number is 907219 and the Parts Centre equivalent number is 452458 although neither stock them now.

Have any of you guys come across this fault or have any idea as to what my next move should be.

Thanks Steve

 

[gas4you]

I too believe these are now obsolete.

After 30 years it owes nobody anything and as these boilers can be very dangerous, I can only recommend biting the bullet and replacing it.

 

[10stb]

Thanks for such a quick reply Dave.

Any suggestions as to the make and spec of a new on.
Have a 5 bedroom house with 6 radiators, 2 single towel radiators and 2 small ensuite radiators upstairs and 8 radiators and a towel radiator downstairs.

I know that you're gonna say that the 10/16 was never designed to cope with that output! I built an extension 8 years ago and just added to the existing system thinking that if the boiler struggles I'd replace it.

It never did until now!! So I guess you're right. Its bite the bullet time!!

 

[gas4you]

I would recommend a ATAG E22S or a Vaillant Ecotec Plus 624.

 

[waterworks]

Hi if your boiler is a 10/16 mk2f then it is still possible to get a gas valve, if it is the later 10/16 electronic model the gas valve is discontinued but all other parts are still available.

The electronic models gas valve will click twice the first one lighting pilot the second one lighting the main burner, usually when the gas valve fails it's the second one which goes.
Also the pcb on this boiler tends to suffer from bad joints, a light tap with the end of a screw driver on the spark generator will usually make it work, the three wire connector with black,white & blue wires comes unsoldered.

 

[ChrisR]

in 1988

That's about right

(making it 30 years old)

But that isn't! It's just about run-in then

The gas valve is unlikely to have a bad connection, but if it has, it's pretty accessible. I've redone wiring on a few. (I thought it was the pilot solenoid which was more likely to fail, not that it makes much difference to the outcome!)

 

[Agile]

Whats the make of the gas valve?

I have a feeling that we have one in stock reeady for a rainy day!

However, a new boiler will be about 35% more efficient and save a lot of gas!

I have a feeling that Chris may still be using a Netaheat!

Tony

 

[ChrisR]

All those gas valves are ITT/White-Rodgers, afaik.
Like this, the "Electronic" ones don't have the black connector on the end.

Mine's a IIf, circa 1982.

 

[screech]

a common problem on these is the spark earthing bracket wears away. it's inside the boiler and the electrode sparks against it to light. just because it's making the sparking noise doesn't mean it's actually sparking in the right place. if the bracket is worn it can replaced or just bent towards the electrode. simple job. turn the power off first as the electrode is always live.

 

[tonybhoy]

All those gas valves are ITT/White-Rodgers, afaik.
Like this, but the "Electronic" ones don't have the black connector on the end.

Mine's a IIf, circa 1982.

I looked at MK 2 tonight on the way home and it had a mercury vapour switch (least I think that was what it was) attached.

I tried a second hand relay but the boiler only lit the pilot which is was doing with the old one,presumed the valve was goosed and advised a new boiler.

Customer said 1980 the house was built ,boiler was original.

I'm pulling one out tomorrow

 

[ChrisR]

Yes the 2f had the MV switch.

You can still get the valve + MV switch for the earlier 2F. ££££ though

Potterton say you must not use the earlier valve with the MV switch linked out. Presumably they want you to buy a new Potterton.

I'd forgotten about hte electrode on the ELectronic one - upgrade to a 1982 2F!

 

[Agile]

I cannot remember the details but I seem to remember there is a 180 ohm resistor in series with one of the solenoids on one of the models. If that failed it would stop the boiler.

Tony

 

[tonybhoy]

There was loads of these fitted round where I am. Wimpey houses had them as standard usually with 28MM primaries to the cylinder with a cytrol valve on the return.

One I was at tonight I told the guy there was no way I was opening the case and advised him against too. Loads of soot on the sight glass.

 

[ChrisR]

Asbestos, too.

 

[tonybhoy]

Asbestos, too.

Well I'm 49 and the punter was well into his fifties so no worries there

My father died of mesothelioma ,well actually pneumonia as a result off.

He was a 'monkey dunger' (insulation engineer as was) and an alcoholic :