This boiler is approx 10 years old, it has had a replacement pcb (the improved version with black reset switch) a few years ago. When cold the boiler will fire up normally and run for approx 1-2 mins then shuts down, it tries a relight and the burner ignites but the green light continues to flash, it shuts down and repeats two more times before locking out with red light flashing. I'm assuming its not sensing a flame so I've cleaned and checked the contact of the ignitor/resistive wire all OK. Is it likely to be the pcb as many other problems seem to be related to it or have any of you experienced problems with the resistive wire or electrode? Is there a resistance value for the wire that I can check with a meter? Thanks
Potterton Suprima 60 Problem
- Thread starter Skelly
- Start date
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baxpoti said:
The New board has Two lights
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corgiman said:
Thanks for your reply, can you shed any light on the problem, matey
Could be the board, but check the pump is working first and that you have 240V at the pump. The pcb runs the pump.
Also check the stat sensors are located properly on the pipes in the boiler.
Yes these are notorious for pcb probs but there are other things that can cause this.
Also check the stat sensors are located properly on the pipes in the boiler.
Yes these are notorious for pcb probs but there are other things that can cause this.
Maybe if you call Potty and whisper 'BBC Watchdog!' in the right ear-hole, you MIGHT be able to blag a free replacement PCB..... or not.
Try, anyway.
Try, anyway.
croydoncorgi said:
Always worth a try at the cost of a phone call, though I think they are wise to this by now.
Still try it Skelly, you never Know till you've eaten it.
croydoncorgi said:
definately worth doing i have several customers who have had free replacement pcb's for these heaps of junk (and NO i did not fit any of them) as a company we do not fit Baxi, Main or Potterton as their products and aftersales are appaulling!
gas4you said:
The pump runs so obviously 240V is there, but the pump is same age as rest of system i.e. 10 years old so could low flow be the problem? Pump is set to its highest speed. Stat sensors in boiler appear to be secure and connections checked and cleaned. Before I go for a new pcb can any of you explain what the flashing green light means? Just to re-cap the burner lights but the green light flashes and I can hear the ignitor continuing to spark, after a few seconds it shuts down and trys again until after 3 attempts it locks out. Is it not sensing the flame or could it think the water is up to temp? Are there any voltages/resistance values to check, that would prove the sensors are OK? Thanks to everyone who has responded so far.
Suprima's are a notorious bug-bear...
If the pilot is igniting; then I would recheck the ignition lead and earth connection again for breakages; contact on the board and more importantly that the pilot is spread over the gap between the ignition probe and earthing point.... Sometimes a little bending can help to allow the rectification process to take place easier...
If the pilot lights; can sparking still be heard?
If the pilot does light; have you got any power to the gas valve? Is the gas on?
If the pilot is igniting; then I would recheck the ignition lead and earth connection again for breakages; contact on the board and more importantly that the pilot is spread over the gap between the ignition probe and earthing point.... Sometimes a little bending can help to allow the rectification process to take place easier...
If the pilot lights; can sparking still be heard?
If the pilot does light; have you got any power to the gas valve? Is the gas on?
Pilot? You mean main burner don't you?
Rapid green flashing light is part of the ignition cycle. If you are getting spark, gas and lockout then your rectification is kaput. Check the sensing electrode is 3mm off the burner and clean.
If OK then you need a new board; so be greatful you don't have the 100 model.
Rapid green flashing light is part of the ignition cycle. If you are getting spark, gas and lockout then your rectification is kaput. Check the sensing electrode is 3mm off the burner and clean.
If OK then you need a new board; so be greatful you don't have the 100 model.
Sorry - Me being a numpty - Yes.... Burner.
Doh!
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