I'm trying to work out how a power shower should be fitted, from what I gather so far, the cold should come from the tank in the loft, and the hot should come from something called a surrey flange which should be put on the top pipe of the hot water cylinder? Should these pipes have valves in? or are valves not allowed here?, also to get the output from the pump (if it is in the airing cupboard which seems to be the recommended place), to the bathroom, the pipes would have to go up into the loft, not quite upto the height of the cold tank, but not far off it, and certainly higher than the hot water cynlinder, is this going to put an end to the plan of haveing a power shower?
Power shower
- Thread starter Adam_151
- Start date
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surrey flange is fitted to the cylinder
rest sounds ok
my ex wifes pipework is approx 2"" below the bottom of the tank and works ok
fit isolation valves in the supplies to the pump
rest sounds ok
my ex wifes pipework is approx 2"" below the bottom of the tank and works ok
fit isolation valves in the supplies to the pump
recomended 150 mm below outlet of storage tank. Dont forget to put some air vents on pipework in loft.(just in case)
Thanks for your help so far, a few more questions
1) from what I've read, the pipes should be 22mm as far as possible is this correct?
2) the horzontal distance from airing cupboard to bathroom is between 6 and 8 metres (I guess), will this cause a problem?
3) Could you elaborate on the air vent recomendation, I am unsure what you mean
4) The (pump output) pipes will have to go past the small shower room, which currently has a shower cubicle but no shower, would a second shower on the same pump work, I should imagine it is rare they would be used together, or would an electric heated shower be better than this for the small shower room. We currently have one of these(electric shower) in the main bathroom, and it goes hot when you use a tap, if we tried to use one of these at the same time as a power shower, I think the tank would start to re-fill from use of the power shower, making the electric shower uncormfortable until the power shower finished and the tank refilled to the top??
5) We have a family member who is in the habbit of talking long showers, what would happen when the power shower had emptied the tank?
1) from what I've read, the pipes should be 22mm as far as possible is this correct?
2) the horzontal distance from airing cupboard to bathroom is between 6 and 8 metres (I guess), will this cause a problem?
3) Could you elaborate on the air vent recomendation, I am unsure what you mean
4) The (pump output) pipes will have to go past the small shower room, which currently has a shower cubicle but no shower, would a second shower on the same pump work, I should imagine it is rare they would be used together, or would an electric heated shower be better than this for the small shower room. We currently have one of these(electric shower) in the main bathroom, and it goes hot when you use a tap, if we tried to use one of these at the same time as a power shower, I think the tank would start to re-fill from use of the power shower, making the electric shower uncormfortable until the power shower finished and the tank refilled to the top??
5) We have a family member who is in the habbit of talking long showers, what would happen when the power shower had emptied the tank?
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1 no real need might give a better flow
2 no
3 auto air vent at the highest point in the pipework
4 might get away with two depends on the shower and the pump
5 it gets cold quick
2 no
3 auto air vent at the highest point in the pipework
4 might get away with two depends on the shower and the pump
5 it gets cold quick
It would appear you are going for a separate pump rather than an integrated power shower, right?
1) Depends on the pump. Some of the more heavy duty pumps have 22mm fittings, most of the others have 15mm fittings included.
2) No, provided you keep the pipework as straight as possible... no elbows, any corners swept as widely as possible with a pipe-bender.
3) Not entirely sure, but I would imagine so you can bleed out air (could make the flow-switch respond more slowly, delay between turning on shower and water coming out)
4) You can get pumps suitable for multiple showers (these are usually the ones with 22mm fittings) These are specified specifically as capable of supplying multiple showers, so they must be suitable
5) All manner of things. If your mains feed CAN replenish the cold tank more quickly than the pump can drain it, then you will have the unpleasant sensation of a cold shower once the hot water is used up. But that is all. The cold feed to the shower is mounted above the cold feed to the hot cylinder, thus the pump will cut out BEFORE you blanche yourself with 60 degree water!
If your mains feed CAN'T replenish the cold tank quickly enough then you will find the pump starts to make funny noises, and will then cut out automatically. I did this when I shut off the supply to the cold tank and forgot to turn it back on again. Drained the tank in about 10 minutes, then had to push all the air out with a washing machine hose connected to mains.
1) Depends on the pump. Some of the more heavy duty pumps have 22mm fittings, most of the others have 15mm fittings included.
2) No, provided you keep the pipework as straight as possible... no elbows, any corners swept as widely as possible with a pipe-bender.
3) Not entirely sure, but I would imagine so you can bleed out air (could make the flow-switch respond more slowly, delay between turning on shower and water coming out)
4) You can get pumps suitable for multiple showers (these are usually the ones with 22mm fittings) These are specified specifically as capable of supplying multiple showers, so they must be suitable
5) All manner of things. If your mains feed CAN replenish the cold tank more quickly than the pump can drain it, then you will have the unpleasant sensation of a cold shower once the hot water is used up. But that is all. The cold feed to the shower is mounted above the cold feed to the hot cylinder, thus the pump will cut out BEFORE you blanche yourself with 60 degree water!
If your mains feed CAN'T replenish the cold tank quickly enough then you will find the pump starts to make funny noises, and will then cut out automatically. I did this when I shut off the supply to the cold tank and forgot to turn it back on again. Drained the tank in about 10 minutes, then had to push all the air out with a washing machine hose connected to mains.
kevplumb said:1 no real need might give a better flow
2 no
3 auto air vent at the highest point in the pipework
4 might get away with two depends on the shower and the pump
5 it gets cold quick
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intereted in your quotes. have recently put cylinder in roof to get rid off airing cuboard, all works fine coffin tank above hot water tank, but having a few problems with power shower? fiiting or tee into hotwater pipe is some 1.5m away from the top of the cylinder but is the first tee off, pump does not work well when kitchen hot tap turned on. do you suggest moving the tee fitting next to tank or what
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