Problem wiring an attic pull switch

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Hi People

Simple question here. I am trying to connect an attic strip light with a pull switch. The power needs to come from a single three pin wall socket as there are no other sources in the attic and the lighting circuit for the house cannot be accessed. The strip light fitting is done. A power lead (2.5 thickness) from the single plug socket is done. It's the wiring connections in the pull switch that has stumped me.

The pull switch has three terminals - COM, L1, and L2. Therefore I have six wires to connect - three in from the wall socket, and three out towards the strip light. The earth terminal has the two earths from the socket and strip light connected. So it's just two reds and two blacks. But where? I keep getting is wrong and tripping the RCD.

Anyone? Please? And what fuse size should I have in the wall socket?
 
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You keep going wrong as the line conductor (brown or red) will be connected across COM and L1, the neutral(blue or black) conductor will be connected together in a separate connection block.
So you will have the neutral together but not terminated on the switch plate but the Line/Live/Phase conductors will be so one is at Com and one at L1
 
Hmm.

The 2.5mm cable, does this connect to a fused plug, or direct into the back of the socket?

If the latter, how many cables go into that socket (before you added anything) 1, 2 or more?

Normally lighting circuits use 1.0 or 1.5mm² cable and is fused down to 3 or 5 amps at a fused spur (or in a plug).

Read the WIKI on lighting circuits for how to connect. Normally only the live and switched live go to the switch, it is possible to take all of the cables to the switch but it will be very cramped in there - may be impossible using 2.5mm² conductors.

EDIT: AT the switch pt the two blacks together in a separate insulated terminal block.
The red from the feed in C and the red to the light in L1.

But you need to sort out the fusing.
 
2.5mm cable for the light fitting is overkill, but as you've already done, never mind. The COM, L1 and L2 in the switch indicate it is a two-way switch, but you only need one way, so ignore L2.

From your plug put the LIVE (brown) in the COM. From L1 take the LIVE to the light fitting. From your plug connect the NEUTRAL (blue) directly to the NEUTRAL (blue) to the light using a separate connector - do not use L2. Connect the earths at the earth connector in the light switch.

In the plug, use a 3A fuse.

PJ
 
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I am really grateful to all who replied to my mailing. I've learned something in just a few minutes!
 
The power needs to come from a single three pin wall socket as there are no other sources in the attic and the lighting circuit for the house cannot be accessed. The strip light fitting is done. A power lead (2.5 thickness) from the single plug socket is done.
You've put a 2.5mm² cable into a plug?


And what fuse size should I have in the wall socket?
Sockets don't have fuses - the fuse goes in the plug....
 
If you are plugging this wiring into a socket, be certain to use flex, and not flat twin+earth cable.
 
You've put a 2.5mm² cable into a plug?


And what fuse size should I have in the wall socket?
Sockets don't have fuses - the fuse goes in the plug....[/quote]

2.5, yes, straight from the wall plug.

On the second question, sorry, I meant 'plug' not 'socket'. I am going to lower the fuse size (from 13amp) as one of the other guys said.
 
get some of this flex
T&E is not designed to be used as a flex cable, therefore not suitable for the purpose you are using it.
Use the flex and replace 13A fuse to 5A fuse in plug.
You could have considered instead of using a plug, installing a fused connection unit and down fusing from that.
It depends what the set up of the existing socket outlet is though.
 
Twin+earth flat is ok for fixed wiring, where it's entire run is cable clipped.

It's not suitable to be wired to a 13 amp plug though. Where any movement of the cable is likely, the cable needs to flexible, hence flex.
 
It's not suitable to be wired to a 13 amp plug though. Where any movement of the cable is likely, the cable needs to flexible, hence flex.

The wire is only about eight feet long and is well clipped...but I'll change it anyway and reduce the amperage. Thanks.
 

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