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I had a new oil tank and supply line installation (done and certified by an OFTEC registered tradesman) last summer. As part of the job he fitted a remote sensing fire valve to my oil suppy line. It is a KBB 65degC type.
My oil boiler (like most boilers, I guess) has a hot water loop thermostat (settings 1 to 6) and a safety cut out thermostat (internal to the boiler - no idea what temperature it trips at). I have been advised that it is most efficient to run with the hot water loop stat set to max and Up until last year this is what I had been doing. As for the safety cut out 'stat - but in the last 12 years I reckon I can count on one hand how many times it has tripped (it lights up a red lamp on the boiler while it is in its cut-out state). I've always wondered whether it was working properly.
Anyhow, in case you hadn't guessed what is coming, since fitting the fire valve I cannot run my boiler with the hot water loop 'stat above "4" without tripping the fire valve. I'd like to point out that my boiler isn't malfunctioning and clearly isn't on fire. The fire valve seems to be a little bit too eager to pop. Either that, or since my boiler predates the requirements for fire valves, maybe the hot water loop 'stat and limit 'stat settings are higher than you would find in a modern boiler?
I know that you can get 90degC fire valves. While the job is under warranty, should I get my installer to come back and fit a 90deg fire valve to allow me to run at a higher temperature, or would it be better to get a replacement hot water loop 'stat and/or safety 'stat that only allow operation up to a lower temperature? It seems a bit silly (and it’s a bit inconvenient) to have a boiler that allows me to run it into a situation where the fire valve pops. I'd rather be able to turn everything up to a maximum and let the two 'stats control everything, and only have the fire valve go off if there is actually a fire.
I also plan to put a temp probe inside the boiler case and measure the actual temperature in there, just in case the fire valve itself is malfunctioning.
My oil boiler (like most boilers, I guess) has a hot water loop thermostat (settings 1 to 6) and a safety cut out thermostat (internal to the boiler - no idea what temperature it trips at). I have been advised that it is most efficient to run with the hot water loop stat set to max and Up until last year this is what I had been doing. As for the safety cut out 'stat - but in the last 12 years I reckon I can count on one hand how many times it has tripped (it lights up a red lamp on the boiler while it is in its cut-out state). I've always wondered whether it was working properly.
Anyhow, in case you hadn't guessed what is coming, since fitting the fire valve I cannot run my boiler with the hot water loop 'stat above "4" without tripping the fire valve. I'd like to point out that my boiler isn't malfunctioning and clearly isn't on fire. The fire valve seems to be a little bit too eager to pop. Either that, or since my boiler predates the requirements for fire valves, maybe the hot water loop 'stat and limit 'stat settings are higher than you would find in a modern boiler?
I know that you can get 90degC fire valves. While the job is under warranty, should I get my installer to come back and fit a 90deg fire valve to allow me to run at a higher temperature, or would it be better to get a replacement hot water loop 'stat and/or safety 'stat that only allow operation up to a lower temperature? It seems a bit silly (and it’s a bit inconvenient) to have a boiler that allows me to run it into a situation where the fire valve pops. I'd rather be able to turn everything up to a maximum and let the two 'stats control everything, and only have the fire valve go off if there is actually a fire.
I also plan to put a temp probe inside the boiler case and measure the actual temperature in there, just in case the fire valve itself is malfunctioning.