Proper switch operation of Extractor Fan in Bathroom

[para1020]

Guys,

Had a new extension put on in the summer and now have a few points of snagging for the builder to deal with at a meeting next week.

Can I ask how the extractor fan ( basic not timer humidstat model) in the newly formed bathroom should be switched on? At present it is operated on a on/off basis by operating the high level isolator switch ( at top of door frame height). I assumed this would be operated when turning the light on and off like the original extractors we have in the house?

Is this something that the builder needs to change and is the current complying with building standards?

Your advice would be welcome.

Tony

 

[PBC_1966]

You could have it linked to the light if you wish, but do you really want the fan to run every time you need to turn on the light at night for a minute? And if you have natural daylight, do you really want to have the light on every time you want to run the fan? Having the fan wired to a separate switch is the better option, since it gives you full, independent control of both light and fan.

 

[para1020]

Thanks for the reply, the only problem with independent control is the switch is over 2.2m from the ground meaning my DW or older children cant reach it to switch fan on prior to showering.

 

[Iggifer]

If you leave that switch on, does it not go on and off with the light? It may well have overrun so could stay on for ~15min after you turn the light off

 

[PBC_1966]

Thanks for the reply, the only problem with independent control is the switch is over 2.2m from the ground meaning my DW or older children cant reach it to switch fan on prior to showering.

I meant have it wired to another switch which is in a sensible location, not just use the existing isolator. If you are having a regular wall switch for the light, for example, you could ask for a 2-gang switch so that one switch controls the light, the other the fan.

It may well have overrun so could stay on for ~15min after you turn the light off

the extractor fan ( basic not timer humidstat model)

 

[Iggifer]

oh

 

[para1020]

Iggifer, no, the fan keeps running with light off, currently 33mins and counting...... PBC 1966, the jobs done, plastered wall now decorated so adding another switch will be a big problem.....

 

[JohnD]

Many people have an aversion to ventilation and refuse to turn fans on, so it is usual to have the lights and the fan come on together, with an overrun timer for the fan.

People who have worn-out cheap fans with noisy bearings think that fans are noisy.

People who do not know that a typical bathroom fan runs for 50 hours on 11p worth of electricity think they are saving money by having a damp, mouldy home.

 

[seasickstevie]

Is there an opening window in the bathroom?

If so, then technically you don't need a fan.

However putting the one and only operational switch at a ridiculous height is unacceptable.

 

[PBC_1966]

Many people have an aversion to ventilation and refuse to turn fans on, so it is usual to have the lights and the fan come on together, with an overrun timer for the fan.

It seems to have become so in Britain in more recent years, but independent switching used to be the norm (it still is here in the U.S.).

The other aversion many people have is to a fan running unnecessarily, not so much for any concern about the cost but where it can disturb a light sleeper etc. Having the fan controlled by the light switch might be counterproductive at inducing people to use ventilation when it's really needed, since what often happens is that they just disconnect the fan altogether to avoid it coming on with the light.

Iggifer, no, the fan keeps running with light off, currently 33mins and counting...... PBC 1966, the jobs done, plastered wall now decorated so adding another switch will be a big problem.....

Paralleling with the light may be the easiest option now, although there's always the option of replacing the fan with one which has an integral switch, depending upon location.

Alternatively, if you do already have a wall switch it might have been wired in a way such that with a suitable junction box in the attic the existing cabling could be used to run two switches (a 2-gang switch fits the same size box as a single, so no need to change that). It really depends upon how much work you want to go to and what's already there.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Thanks for the reply, the only problem with independent control is the switch is over 2.2m from the ground meaning my DW or older children cant reach it to switch fan on prior to showering.

Before it is (assuming it is not) too late to do things which might require decorative making good, consider going for one of these options:

1. Fan triggered by a flow switch in the water to the shower
2. Fan triggered by a temperature switch on the hot supply to the shower

What sort of shower is it?

 

[seasickstevie]

Fan triggered by a flow switch in the water to the shower

And ... flow switch to the cistern supply.

Not only the condensation you want to get rid of.

 

[jedi]

Would it be easier to replace the switch with a pull cord switch? They should fit into the backplate/box...

Then everyone could reach it...


Any pics?

 

[chappers]

although there's always the option of replacing the fan with one which has an integral switch, depending upon location.

That's probably the best option now, fit a fan with a pull cord, you could always extend the string if it's too high for the rest of the paras

 

[ban-all-sheds]

And ... flow switch to the cistern supply.

Not only the condensation you want to get rid of.

A timer-moderated pressure switch on the seat would be better. Apart from April & June (more-or-less), not all events preceding a flush would require extraction.