PROTEK RCBO NO ELECTRICITY FLOWING THROUGH

[Neilly000]

Hello,

Sorry to say but I have a PROTEK CU. Reading the forums they are not a good make.

I had a shower and some other associated work done 18 months ago and my electrician said he would have to fit an RCBO. I have the following installed:

http://www.qvsdirect.com/Protek-32A-30mA-B-Type-RCBO-pr-23026.html

Today I turned the supply off to the RCBO to fit a new lightswitch. When complete I pushed the RCBO switch back up. Went upstairs but no power from the circuit. Went back to the CU and noticed that the switch was up but the RCD indicator was green and not red as usual when power is flowing. Tried several times to get the indicator to red but no joy. The switch moves up easily with no resistance. It's the same pressure when pushing the switch up or down.

Do these things go wrong? It just seems rather quick to fail.

For info - I was only changing a lightswitch, I even put the old one back but has made no difference.

Many thanks in advance for any help and advice posted for me.

Neil.

 

[flameport]

Either the RCBO is broken, or more likely whatever you have changed has caused a fault.

 

[Spark123]

Seems a bit of a strange setup, having to turn off a 32A RCBO to change a lightswitch??

 

[Neilly000]

I'm puzzled why you think that a strange setup? Be interested in any answer.

The upstairs lighting curcuit has an RCBO as the shower has an Expelair fan/light unit with the the fan motor and ducting in the roof space. I think my electrician said he had to use an RCBO now for this type of installation. The shower is not an electric one. I always disconnect the supply whenever doing anything on any particular circuit.

 

[Spark123]

32A though for a lighting circuit? I hope it is fused down somewhere.

 

[Neilly000]

Sorry for not understanding, I'm just the homeowner!

I not sure what you mean by it being 'fused down'

I hope my electrician, who is part P and gave me the paperwork for this job hasn't done anything wrong. He has done several other jobs for me also. I have confidence in him and he was a personal recomendation.

Neil.

 

[Chri5]

Neilly

A 32amp circuit tends to be for ring main sockets, a lighting circuit tends to be 6 or 10 amp.

So via your post you have a 32 amp RCBO controlling upstairs lights which is wrong (or youre wrong and the RCBO does something else).

Under 17th edition new circuits post July 08 should be protected by either an rcd or an rcbo. RCBO's are available in the full range of sizes 6 /10/16/20/32/40/45 amps and the 'odd' thing is you mention a 32 amp for lights !

Could I suggest you post a picture of the fuse board and confirm all items that now don't work on the 'dead' circuit.

You could also remove the l/switch, tape up the cores seperately, and then see if the rcbo re-energizes (this would help id if the problem is with your wiring at the switch).

Rgds

 

[Steve]

He says the switch moves up with no resistance. This indicates an internal fault with the RCBO itself. There should be resistance turning it on - it takes much more force than turning it off - they "ping" off.

 

[Neilly000]

Thanks for the replies.
I have just had a look at the RCBO and on the front it has RCBO 30 B6. Not sure actually how I can tell the amperage. I just seemed to remember 32amp - so maybe best to ignore that bit!

Apologies if I thought it was 32amp.

I have put the old lightswitch back and tried with the wires taped but no difference.

As Steve has said, there is no resistance on the switch so I am unable to make any circuit. I can leave the switch in the up position but the green indicator for the RCD tester stays green. It will not go to red.

I'm just surprised that it might have only lasted 18 months! Looks like I'll get my electrician round to fit a new one.

UPDATE - Just found my original order with QVS and it shows 6A - apologies again.

 

[Spark123]

If you are ordering a replacement you need a 30mA, 6A, type B.
Just as well we asked

 

[Neilly000]

I have found the old 6A non-RCBO MCB. Just wondering if that could be put back as a temporary measure, assumng I didnlt use the shower or fan/light unit, until I get the new one.

The fitting looks straight-forward to me but I giuess you will advise an electericiain only do it. But I have to ask.

If I isolate the supply via the main switch would it be potentially safe to replace the MCB?

Just wondering.

Thanks.

Neil.

 

[Neilly000]

Called PROTEK and they are going to send me another one.

The PROTEK products might not attract much praise here but I cannot fault their customer service.

Neil.