Light came on this morning. No CH or HW. Checked pressure, too low added water no above 1 but light wont go out and still not firing. Please tell me this is something simple and obvious! Have opened radiators to bleed and don't seem to be blocked.
Puma 100 low system pressure
- Thread starter Johannah
- Start date
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take the wire off the pressure switch
if boiler works replace pressure switch
the switch is a SAFETY device dont run the boiler without it
if boiler works replace pressure switch
the switch is a SAFETY device dont run the boiler without it
B
breezer
whats the pressure gauge reading? if push comes to shove you want a heating engineer not a plumber
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the pressure switch is on the diverter valve
1. Remove the white front case and base panel. See 4.1 & 4.2 in 'Routine Maintenance'.
2. Close the central heating isolating valves, reduce the system pressure by opening the pressure relief valve, then drain the water from the appliance by removing the drain off screw on the underside of the pump manifold.
3. Lower the control panel assembly by undoing the securing screw at the top right hand side of this control panel.
4. Remove the two wire connections and unscrew the switch from the diverter valve.
5. Fit the new switch using a new sealing washer.
6. Re-assemble in reverse order. Electrical polarity is not important. If there are three terminals, do not use the terminal insulated by sleeving. The wires must be connected to the terminals on the switch body marked 1 & 2. (Normally Closed)
7. Open the isolating valves. Re-charge the system as described in section 1.8 and check for leaks.
5.31
if you cant do it then yes you need a heat emmission technichan
the valve (and the switch is under the pump)
1. Remove the white front case and base panel. See 4.1 & 4.2 in 'Routine Maintenance'.
2. Close the central heating isolating valves, reduce the system pressure by opening the pressure relief valve, then drain the water from the appliance by removing the drain off screw on the underside of the pump manifold.
3. Lower the control panel assembly by undoing the securing screw at the top right hand side of this control panel.
4. Remove the two wire connections and unscrew the switch from the diverter valve.
5. Fit the new switch using a new sealing washer.
6. Re-assemble in reverse order. Electrical polarity is not important. If there are three terminals, do not use the terminal insulated by sleeving. The wires must be connected to the terminals on the switch body marked 1 & 2. (Normally Closed)
7. Open the isolating valves. Re-charge the system as described in section 1.8 and check for leaks.
5.31
if you cant do it then yes you need a heat emmission technichan
the valve (and the switch is under the pump)
FWIW, there's at least 50 percent probability that the pressure switch is electrically OK but blocked with black crud. Unfortunately (!!), many users do not put corrosion inhibitor in their systems. Oxidation (and black crud) is the result. You may find that unscrewing the switch (after depressurising the system!!!) and unblocking the hole fixes the problem. If so, put some system cleaner into a radiator before you repressurise, run with it in for a week, drain the system completely, add inhibitor, then refill.
This was meant for Kev but I lost his email and sent it to blah and now time's passed.....
"
[You know as well as I do - so I didn't post this for the puma man I'll let you do it...........
"Well yes but the isolating valves may not isolate, and they may well leak afterwards, and the pressure relief valve may well leak afterwards.
You can avoid those by closing all rads noting how far the valves were open, and drain through the system drain cock. That can give you problems of its own - buy a new washer for it in readiness......"
]
"
Tis true about them blocking with grot, but note how much effort you in fact went to to drain enough water. If it doesn't work you'll have to do it again if you try just cleaning it. They only cost a few quid - I don't risk it any more!
"
[You know as well as I do - so I didn't post this for the puma man I'll let you do it...........
"Well yes but the isolating valves may not isolate, and they may well leak afterwards, and the pressure relief valve may well leak afterwards.
You can avoid those by closing all rads noting how far the valves were open, and drain through the system drain cock. That can give you problems of its own - buy a new washer for it in readiness......"
]
"
Tis true about them blocking with grot, but note how much effort you in fact went to to drain enough water. If it doesn't work you'll have to do it again if you try just cleaning it. They only cost a few quid - I don't risk it any more!
wasnt my advice chris
came straight from m i s
came straight from m i s
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