Pump Isolation Valve question (Solved)

[Ray1000]

While checking if the isolation valves for the central heating pump would close, one of them started leaking from the stuffing box.

By choosing a slightly different open position the drip has almost stopped but I wondered if it were straightforward sealing the spindle.

1. Is the spindle still held in, and reasonably leakproof with the gland nut removed?
2. Does the valve need to be fully open or fully closed before moving the gland nut?
3. Does it have a rubber "O" ring seal?
4. Is it possible to slacken the nut off far enough to apply PTFE tape to the spindle?

Thank you for your help
Ray

 

[Jackrae]

1 yes
2 either
3 no
4 yes
From your photo it looks as if the gland nut will tighten a bit more. Even 1/12 of a turn (half a flat) may be enough to stop any weepage.

 

[Ray1000]

Thank you very much Jack, I think I tried tightening the gland nut last night but I’ll double check tomorrow.

Knowing a Peglars old type brass radiator valve needs to be fully open before removing the gland nut - otherwise the spindle will come out - I wondered if these were the same.

Ray

 

[Ray1000]

Job done, thank you again for your help.

For DIYers benefit ... if you're wary about taking the gland nut out with the system full of water you can use a G clamp as shown in the picture.

Fold a short length of PTFE tape in two then twist it into a cord, only wind it loosely, clockwise around the spindle.

Ray

 

[Jackrae]

I appreciate your doubt and the method you used to ensure the spindle wouldn't 'eject' but I can assure you the spindle is secured into a retaining notch in the valve gate since it has to both "pull' and "push" the gate

 

[Ray1000]

Thank you for that Jack, I expected you would be right ... my caution comes from once having a house full of Peglars rad valves that needed to be fully open when the gland nut was removed.
Ray