Pump Runs Continually

[Shutpa]

We have just noticed that even though the boiler is not running having reached the 3.5 setting and the temperature in the room is well beyond the 21 degree thermostat setting, the pump is running continually. I have temporarily removed a radiator but cannot see how this could cause the pump to run non-stop. Can someone advise please?

Edit: The thermostat appears to be functiong correctly.

 

[Armo74]

Some more info on the system needed.
Could be pump overrun.

 

[Shutpa]

Unit is an Ideal FF360 Classic Fanned Flue Gas Boiler and the pump still runs with the room themostat turned all the way down. As far as I can see, the only way to turn it off is to turn the water heating switch off at the boiler control unit.

 

[Shutpa]

British gas engineer calling in the morning. Thanks for the input.

 

[Shutpa]

BG engineer called today and said that it was a loose wire somewhere in the boiler. Fixed it and said that as soon as the water reached temperature the pump would stop running. He left 5 hours ago and the pump is still running and according to the HW thermostat, the temperature hasn't moved a single degree. It was at 50 when he left and it still is!
I also pointed out that one of our radiators was cold at the bottom and hot at the top. He fitted a new thermostat control to the radiator and guess what? Yes, it is still cold at the bottom. Phoned BG and another engineer is coming out tomorrow.
Opinions would be welcome.

Edit: I thought that when a radiator was cold at the bottom it meant that there was gunge(?) lying in there.

 

[45yearsagasman]

If you have anything like these next to your cylinder, get the numpty to check those. A loose wire somewhere in the boiler causing the pump to stay on.........My Ar5e
View media item 44939 View media item 38425

 

[Shutpa]

I do have a black thing like that labelled a 'mid position activator'. Is that what you mean? I'm sure he said that the room thermostat was wired straight to the boiler.

 

[45yearsagasman]

Rest assured that your boiler has only a LNE electrical connection (or should have) All other controls are connected to some sort of wiring centre possibly in the airing cupboard) and then to the external controls.
Your boiler has no pump over run, so the pump is not connected directly to the boiler.

 

[Tipper]

I do have a black thing like that labelled a 'mid position activator'. Is that what you mean? I'm sure he said that the room thermostat was wired straight to the boiler.

That sounds like a control valve.

These have auxiliary switches in them which control the pump/boiler on some systems, hence the pump staying on if the switch has stuck. The switches or the motor that moves the valve fails.

I suggest getting someone to check out the wiring and switch ouput from this valve. You may need a new valve motor head, ie not the body/whole valve. (Cheaper just the motor head. Changing the internal motor only is even cheaper but often not very reliable due to the old worn out switches remaining and can prove to be a waste of time and money)

 

[Shutpa]

Engineer No2 has just left. Seemed much more on top of things and after a relatively short time, pinpointed the cause behind the pump running non-stop, was a sensor on the side of the tank not telling the thermostat in the same airing cupboard that the required temperature had been reached. He has ordered both and these will be fitted tomorrow FOC under the contract.
With regards to the cold-at-the-bottom radiator, he said that this was caused by a build-up of sludge and he will flush this out when he calls tomorrow. He added that I might have to consider getting the whole system flushed out but this wouldn't be done under the contract and would cost arouind £600.00.

 

[Shutpa]

Just an update. The 'fix' applied by engineer number 2 did not work and the pump has been running continually since yesterday at 2pm. And he left without flushing out the radiator as promised. Phoned BG last night and requested that an new and competent engineer call to examine and repair the non- stop-running pump. Was given a 2 hour slot but BG have just phoned to say that he is running late.
To recap. The first engineer thought that the fault in the pump was caused by a loose wire behind or at the back of the boiler. He tightened that up, but there was no difference. Second engineer put it down to a faulty sensor on the tank and/or the thermostat that is controlled by that sensor. He replaced both adding that as soon as the required temperature was reached, the pump would stop runniing. It never has, despite being on for 9 hours after the engineer left yesterday and another 8 hours today.


Will put Tipper's suggestion.............

"I suggest getting someone to check out the wiring and switch ouput from this valve. You may need a new valve motor head, ie not the body/whole valve. (Cheaper just the motor head. Changing the internal motor only is even cheaper but often not very reliable due to the old worn out switches remaining and can prove to be a waste of time and money)"

...........to the guy who calls today and see what he says..

 

[Agile]

Three BG engineer visits needed?

This seems to be they are too busy at the moment and turn up, give some bullshit and leave!

Not very efficient for BG but it keeps the customers happy at a busy time!

If you were MY customer then I would make you wait until I had time to come and stay until I had fixed it ( properly ).

Tony

 

[Shutpa]

Three BG engineer visits needed?

This seems to be they are too busy at the moment and turn up, give some bulls**t and leave!

Not very efficient for BG but it keeps the customers happy at a busy time!

If you were MY customer then I would make you wait until I had time to come and stay until I had fixed it ( properly ).

Tony

Guys just left. Fitted a 'mid position activator' (?), found that this wasn't doing the job and then discovered a valve similar to a stopcock, that wasn't fully opened. Opened it fully and bobs your uncle, job done with immediate succesful result. Everything ok now and about time too.

PS But how come the valve wasn't fully open in the first place?????????????

 

[matt1e]

Guys just left. Fitted a 'mid position activator' (?), found that this wasn't doing the job and then discovered a valve similar to a stopcock, that wasn't fully opened. Opened it fully and bobs your uncle, job done with immediate succesful result. Everything ok now and about time too.

PS But how come the valve wasn't fully open in the first place?????????????

Glad you have it sorted mate but for the record
In my opinion there is no way on this earth that a half open manual valve or a faulty midposition valve installed in a correctly wired y-plan system could cause the symptoms you describe
i.e the pump to run continuously

Matt

 

[holty]

+1 sounds like a gate valve being used as a manual bypass. not a good idea to fully open if so