Putting plug on a hardwire oven

[gmcg1977]

Hi there,

Sorry, this is a bit of a lengthy first post but I am going mad here!!

We are having major issues with sourcing a replacement oven for our old Baumatic that died recently due to the location of a gas pipe in the oven recess. To cut a long story short our only option left is to purchase the same oven again. Looking at the user manual, the oven says hardwire only and yet the oven we just took out (which was there when we moved in) was simply plugged into a standard socket in one of the adjacent cupboards.

In the manual it states:

"Before connecting the appliance, make sure that the supply voltage marked on the rating plate corresponds with your mains supply voltage.

Warning: this appliance must be earthed.

This appliance should be wired into a 13 A double pole switched fused spur outlet, having 3 mm contact separation and placed in an easily accessible position adjacent to the appliance. The spur outlet must still be accessible even when your oven is located in its housing.

To connect the oven power cord, loosen and remove the cover on the terminal block, in order to gain access to the contacts inside. Make the connection, securing the cord in place with the cable clamp provided and then immediately close the terminal block cover again.

If you have to change the oven power cord, the earthing (yellow/green) conductor must always be 10 mm longer than the line conductors.

Care must be taken to ensure that the temperature of the mains supply cable does not exceed 50°C.

If the mains supply cable is damaged, then it must be replaced by an appropriate replacement which can be obtained from the Baumatic Spares Department."

If the fuse requirement is 13A can I not just attach a standard 13A plug to the power cable and use that? Hardwiring would be a major undertaking due to a tiled kitchen, a concrete floor, and big thick masonry walls.

Thanks in advance for your help!

Grant

 

[ericmark]

In theory if the "rating plate" shows less than 3000W or 13A then you could connect to a plug so long as the socket was able to provide that power at all times.

But in practice 13A plugs do tend to fail when the power used is on the limit and since a fused connection unit is the same size as a single socket then to replace a single socket with fused connection unit is far better.

You would not want to use a double socket for such a high load and also to ensure the circuit is not overloaded it should be a dedicated circuit not part of ring main.

You say "Hardwiring would be a major undertaking due to a tiled kitchen, a concrete floor, and big thick masonry walls." I can't understand why as it is only the replacing of a socket with FCU so I will assume I have missed something? Maybe the oven is over 3000W in which case you have no option.

Do be aware of Part P

 

[gmcg1977]

Thanks for the reply!

The rating of the oven is 2.35kW so well under there. The old oven was plugged into a double socket which also drives the spark for the gas oven, which I could just not use if the oven was on or would you recommend unplugging this completely?

Sorry for my ignorance but how would I check if it was on a dedicated circuit?

And as for my statement "Hardwiring would be a major undertaking due to a tiled kitchen, a concrete floor, and big thick masonry walls." - again my ignorance. I assumed that hardwiring meant a dedicated spur from the junction box at the other side of the house.

As for Part P, surefly if I use a suitable fuse to meet the rating of the product I am ensuring things are safe, or am I wrong?

Thanks again for the input.

Grant

 

[Spark123]

Part P doesn't apply to you lot up north of the border!
I think the point that the MI is getting across is that the oven is a fixed appliance hence there is a need to have an accessable point of isolation (which is a good idea anyway). Wether this be a plug and socket which is accessable or a fused spur unit isn't going to make much difference. Wether or not you consider inside a cupboard accessable is another matter.
I wouldn't worry about plugging in the other appliance with an ignitor either, they only take a fraction of an amp.

 

[ColJack]

change the double backbok in/on the wall to a DUAL backbox.. then use a single socket for the spark, and a FCU for the oven. ( or a flex outlet plate if the circuit is fused at 16A in the board.. )

View media item 10929 View media item 10930

 

[gmcg1977]

Double backbox / FCU: do you consider that this this really necessary? Seems like overcomplicating a rather simple problem.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

1) You wondered if it was OK to put a plug on

2) The answer was that it's not the best plan

3) The advice is to lose one half of the double socket and connect it to an FCU as per the manufacturers instructions.


In what way is this over complicating things?

 

[gmcg1977]

1) You wondered if it was OK to put a plug on

2) The answer was that it's not the best plan

3) The advice is to lose one half of the double socket and connect it to an FCU as per the manufacturers instructions.


In what way is this over complicating things?

Sorry, I am not being ungrateful to all the people who are helping, I am just looking for guidance on whether I can get away with using a plug thus saving having to call out an electrician and spending money unnecessarily.

1. Agreed.
2. I didn't read the responses that way (ericmark did not say anything definitive but was helpful; Spark123 said there is a need to have an accessable point of isolation (which I consider is in place with my set up); and ColJack suggests a FCU).
3. What does a FCU do that a plug does not? Why is "as per the manufacturers instructions" in bold, are you suggesting that I am foolish for even considering an alternative?

The message I am taking from all the responses so far is that:

A. The ideal is to follow the manufacturer's instructions.
B. Given the power rating of the oven a standard 3 pronged plug with 13A fuse should work just fine, although if the power is on the limit it may fail. My oven is not on the limit (2.35kW and 230V, => 10.2A).
C. A single socket would be better although as the other device using the socket is an ignitor and only takes a fraction of an amp could still be used on a double socket without blowing the fuse.
D. I should check that the socket is on a dedicated circuit.

I have just found a Spec sheet for a similar indesit single oven which has a rating of 2.4kW. It comes with a 13A plug supplied as standard. What is different about this oven (apart from the manufacturer's instructions)?

Maybe I should rephrase my original question. If I were to install a standard plug on this oven and use it on a double socket with an ignitor on the other socket would you consider this dangerous or foolish? Would the worst that would happen be a blown fuse?

Thanks again all for the input, much appreciated.

Thanks,
Grant

 

[flameport]

Ideally the manufacturers instructions should be followed.
The other solutions suggested are perfectly valid.

However in this instance, the simplest option is to fit a plug and use the existing double socket.

Plugs are designed to be used with 13A loads, it won't be damaged or melt, the fuse won't blow either. The only possible problems would be if the wires to the plug were not fitted properly which could cause overheating, or if the socket was old/worn/had loose connections.

 

[Mountaincrest]

How did it work out for you using a plug Grant?

 

[EFLImpudence]

Posted: Thu Oct 01, 2009

 

[Taylortwocities]

Mountaincrest, you are a bad boy for digging up an old topic.

If you have a new question, start your own thread.
Things move on over 2 years,

 

[gmcg1977]

Mountaincrest,

Sorry I should have posted the outcome at the time, may have been useful to someone like yourself. Things worked out just dandy. Plug used, no problem encountered.

Grant

 

[plugwash]

Afaict these statements are a workaround for the plugs and sockets safety regulations (I think that is the reg that requires fitted plugs). As I understand it if the manufacturer says it can be connected with a plug they have to supply and fit one but if they say it must be hard wired (even if there is no logical reason it needs to be) then they don't need to supply or fit one.