Quick question re: kitchen mixer tap

[bliffman]

Hi,

Just a quick question if you don't mind. I want to replace my tap in the kitchen but I'm not sure that the tap that I've bought is compatible.

I watched a few youtube videos on how to do it but my pipes don't seem to have the thread/bolts at the end to connect the new silver connectors too. To my laymans eyes it looks like it's all just connected in one long pipe.

I've taken some photos - can you see if I'm heading down the wrong path?

Also, given this setup, is this something that a plumber should do rather than me having a DIY go? The earthing wires worry me too!


Thanks in advance!

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• bliffman
• 7 Jun 2014
• 1

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• bliffman
• 7 Jun 2014
• 1

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• bliffman
• 7 Jun 2014
• 1

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• bliffman
• 7 Jun 2014
• 1

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• bliffman
• 7 Jun 2014
• 1

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• bliffman
• 7 Jun 2014
• 1

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• bliffman
• 7 Jun 2014
• 1

 

[footprints]

It's a faily simple job for a plumber it rather depends on how confident you are with DIY plumbing.

2 of these should allow your flexible connectors (tails) to link up using the washers supplied with the flexis.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/male-coupler-15mm-x/69358

The isolation valve for the cold looks a bit corroded, fair chance it will leak after it is turned so might be best to have a spare handy.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/15mm-isolating-valve-pack-of-2/65251

You might want to fit one on the hot too.

The original tails were soft copper and soldered to the pipework you will need to cut on a straight clean bit of pipe to fit the adaptors.

When screwing in the tails to the tap wet the black O rings first to help them slip in to the recess without damage, normal advice with the tap is not to overtighten them in fact most say hand tight only.

 

[jonwestuk]

It's a faily simple job for a plumber it rather depends on how confident you are with DIY plumbing.

2 of these should allow your flexible connectors (tails) to link up using the washers supplied with the flexis.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/male-coupler-15mm-x/69358

The isolation valve for the cold looks a bit corroded, fair chance it will leak after it is turned so might be best to have a spare handy.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/15mm-isolating-valve-pack-of-2/65251

You might want to fit one on the hot too.

The original tails were soft copper and soldered to the pipework you will need to cut on a straight clean bit of pipe to fit the adaptors.

When screwing in the tails to the tap wet the black O rings first to help them slip in to the recess without damage, normal advice with the tap is not to overtighten them in fact most say hand tight only.

Good advice that especially about the isolators. As someone who is learning myself, I find youtube very useful e.g. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h8El2m8GWs4

Finally, no need to worry about the earth cables, as long as they stay where they are or the earth stays within 600mm distance of the stop cock (for the mains).

Jon

PS - you may get better results in the future by posting this in the plumbing section rather than the general DIY.

 

[bliffman]

Thanks for your replies guys

I think I'll get a plumber in to do it rather than fret about whether or not I've done it right every time the missus turns the tap on.

Thanks once again for clarifying and I'll be sure to mention about the isolation valve on the cold too.

Cheers.

 

[jonwestuk]

Thanks for your replies guys

I think I'll get a plumber in to do it rather than fret about whether or not I've done it right every time the missus turns the tap on.

Thanks once again for clarifying and I'll be sure to mention about the isolation valve on the cold too.

Cheers.

I would get the isolator on the hot also. Saves a world of pain when you come to put a new tap on or if you have a leak.