Quote to check cabling LE4 area

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Hi I've recently replaced my neighbours old shower (broken) with a new Triton Madrid II.

After connecting it all, the led on the front of the shower shows power but no water comes from the shower when turned on.

I asked a question in another section on here and a few people seem to think it could be the electrics , is there anyone in the Leicester area who could come visit my elderly neighbour and quote if the problem is the wiring ?

Many thanks

Gary
 
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Where did you fit the RCD in this arrangement?
What size cable and MCB is involved - did you check it?
Did you disconnect the extractor fan from the 45Amp Dual pole switch?
Did you test the circuit before and after you changed the three electric showers?
What is the voltage reading at the shower?
Have you commissioned the shower properly? Otherwise you could have damaged the (three) shower(s) and/or activated the PRD?
 
When my neighbour is home will go round.

I used the existing cable which was used on his old 9.5kw shower.

I didn't disconnect the extractor fan as that is how it was set up in his previous set up the pull cord powered both

I have a multimeter to test the voltage at the shower and will do that and post here the results

Are you in the le4 area ? The reason I ask is I just replaced the shower and I possibly believe the 'handyman' he has used in the past may not of set it up correctly (the electrical side of the shower)

I have commissioned all showers correctly as stated in the instructions I.e connect power and water. Turn to 10 and turn shower on to cold wait 30'ish second for water. When first connecting water and electric and starting commissioning the shower does initially makes noise.


Many thanks

Gary
 
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Been to his house to look at his cable going to shower he has live and netrual both of these are stranded and the earth is a solid wire (not stranded)

Reading up this cable is incorrect off to b&q to compare what I have seen with 10mm cable to be sure.

Explained to him who fit old shower may not of fitted it correctly.

His old shower was 6 years old and has no record of who or what company fitted it.
 
So what you are now saying is that you have connected a shower to a circuit with no knowledge of whether it is suitable or not! :rolleyes:

:idea: Isolate the shower at the pull/plate switch and get somebody in who knows what they are doing! :idea:
 
Wrongly I realise now , I thought the original shower would of been fitted correctly this may not of been the case.

I have replaced showers for my mother and brother before without and issues.

I will find electrician to come take a look at current cabling.

Before the showers I have fitted for my family were like for like, this one is same brand but 1kw less and again wrongly assumed less powerful so cabling will be ok.
 
There is every chance that it may be ok. Can you confirm the size of cable, the KW rating of the shower, if the cable is ran in trunking, through insulation, bunched with other cables, the ambient temp and length of run. These all have a factor on the maximum load that you can connect.
 
There is every chance that it may be ok. Can you confirm the size of cable, the KW rating of the shower, if the cable is ran in trunking, through insulation, bunched with other cables, the ambient temp and length of run. These all have a factor on the maximum load that you can connect.

True, but these factors will only mean the cable may overheat and is therefore unsuitable for the application.

However, the shower should still work - I'm not recommending it is put into service with the wrong sized cable but (assuming no RCD/CPD trips) the shower should at least start up.

If the water pressure is OK and there is L,N & E at the shower terminals then there is something more fundamentally wrong here.
Needs a visit to site, methinks.
 
True, but these factors will only mean the cable may overheat and is therefore unsuitable for the application.

Which is my point!
However, the shower should still work - I'm not recommending it is put into service with the wrong sized cable but (assuming no RCD/CPD trips) the shower should at least start up.

As the op has said that the shower has been commissioned correctly then water and power should be present. Hence why I said
ring Triton as this new shower will be covered via manufacturers warranty.
Isolate the shower at the pull/plate switch and get somebody in who knows what they are doing!
 
I have been in his loft and the cabling is a concern as he has main power going to a circular box which splits it off into 4 . And there ia a earth cable not even connected .

I have shown him this and we have plumber /electrician booked tomorrow before 12 to install, fit and test for him .
 
I have been in his loft and the cabling is a concern as he has main power going to a circular box which splits it off into 4 . And there ia a earth cable not even connected .

I have shown him this and we have plumber /electrician booked tomorrow before 12 to install, fit and test for him .

Which just goes to show that you do not know what you are doing and should never have attempted this job in the first place.
As has been said repeatedly on this site, certain work is outside the scope of DIYers and has to be notified. This is not in your own home so it doesn't even come under the banner of DIY. It is a job for a qualified tradesman who has the relevant experience and insurance required. Supposing it had 'worked' when you switched on. Then a short while later the householder is having a shower and something goes wrong? Where do you think your position in this would be? In my eyes, manslaughter at the very least!
 

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