Rad valves

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I have got a microbore heating system which is recently installed but having problems getting the original plumber back who has turned out to be an arse. Several of the radiators at different times seem to have weeped slightly on the lock shield valves. They have come back out and drained down system but they dont seem to be curing the problem, more like sticking more PTFE tape on. Unfortunatly each time I am at work but now he is saying its faulty valves....they are pegler I think. I have read up that it can be slightly dodgy trying to tighten these valves too much on microbore as it can crease the pipe if too much force is applied? I am going away on holidays on Monday and want piece of mind when I go that not going to come back to a minor flood. It is only very slight drips and can get cups under. If he doesnt come back in time before we go (and lets be honest he has had enough attempts at it would the Plumbers Mait (not the sanitary fitting stuff but the two compounds you mix together which harden work? I am guessing though that I wont be able to remove valve then though in future which will knacker it a bit?

I know your going to scream "Get him back!" which I am doing but I am lookin at the possibility that he doesnt come back before monday. Guessing I could try and drain system down? Its a Vaillant Ecotec Pro 28 combi. Would I just turn the power off and drain down from one of the lower rads? Would the system then automatically fill up? I'm guessing the two filling loops would need to be closed off? I think one is already as I had to top the boiler up slightly as the level looked slightly low.

Sorry for the rambling by the way....and the drain off is not the typical drain off cock but just the type attached to the rad...is that opened with a normal square rad key?
 
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You have not stated whether you have plastic or copper pipe.

Just drain from the lowest rad, unless they are all on drops in which case you will have to drain each rad that there is a problem with.

Jet blue is a jointing compound for use on compression joints but others are available if it is copper microbore. Jointing compound should not be used on plastic.

I feel that you have summed your installer up in saying that he has fitted an Ecotec Pro! As others will tell you on here I am a 100% Vaillant installer but would never entertain the budget Pro. For a very small amount extra you would have had the Ecotec Plus 831, More hot water, more advanced and efficient heating, an extra years warranty and looks better as well.

The Ecotec Pro is aimed at the mass new build market primarily, where every pound counts :eek:
 
sorry yeah its copper pipework.

You would be suprised what other engineers offered me in terms of boiler types. Alpha's with B efficency, the whole lot. Just depends on what engineer gets a discount on I suppose.

Work in Housing Association and we purchase the EcoTec Pro 28's....obviously not the best boiler around but has enough digital timer functions on it for what I need....and fills up the bath quickly enough.

What would you say is the price difference between the two at trade price? Not that it matters now :)

But basically if I use any type of compound - it aint coming back off right?
 
About £50, easily saved if you had a breakdown in year 2 :eek:

Jet blue is non setting so all joints can be undone after application ;)
 
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Aaargh gutted.

That Jet Blue would I find that in B&Q or need to go to a Plumb Centre etc?

I also have the Plumbers Mait stuff which goes around sanitary fittings etc but that doesn’t go off....sticky as hell. Is that the same stuff as the product you mention?
 
No. Jet blue is a jointing compound. There are other makes out there, each plumbers merchant will probably have their own brand. B&Q will probably have some cr ap from china :rolleyes:
 
Yes it never sets, it can be used on oil, lpg, gas etc and is potable so can be used on domestic as well.
 
Hi ,10mm compression joints can be pain to seal if the pipe is not in the fitting square.and over tightening will just crush the olive,ptfe tape wrapped round will only make a temporary repair.i myself only use 15mm rad valves with a 15x10mm reducer this gives a much stronger joint.
Oldplumb.
 

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