Surfing around I found this board and started reading the threads, found them most interesting and amusing. So much so I decided to chance my arm and leave a question:-
I have a Radiant RSF24, 27KW combi boiler, located in the integral garage and heating the house and supplying hot water. I was short of money about 8 or 9 years ago and installed the boiler and a few extra rads myself and got a corgi engineer to come and connect it to the gas supply and commission the boiler.
It was working fine until last year, then the pilot light kept going out. Not too difficult that one, faulty thermocouple. Those nice design people combined the thermocouple with the safety stats into one harness, so a little more tricky and expensive to replace than it need be.
Then a couple of months ago, hot water but no heating. Didn't take me too long to figure out the divertor valve wasn't working and replaced the syncron motor.
Last month the boiler kept going out, pilot light as well. Took me a little while to work out the exhaust fan was sticking. Stripped it down and left the bearings in WD40 for a couple of hours and despite the play on the shaft it has been running nicely ever since.
Most recent fault has got me complete stumped though. I will describe what I see as the symptons but I can't figure out the root cause, maybe one the more experienced Gentlemen can lend a hand ....
The system is pressurised to just over 1 bar. If hot water is commanded then everything appears to work normally and the system pressure is only elevated by about 0.2 bar, even with the hot tap running for 10-15 minutes at just over 10 litres per minute.
When the central heating comes on, the system pressure starts to rise gradually. Over a period of say 20 minutes the system has reached 3 bar and is blowing water out the pressure relief valve - had plastic bottle outside the house to make sure and it collected about half a litre.
When the system gets cold, the pressure is now below 1 bar and will not come back on due to "low water level". So why is the pressure getting too high?
At first I thought it might be the expansion vessel so I checked the pressure and it was still at the recommended 1 bar. I pumped it up a bit, let some air out (not water thankfully) and pumped it back to 1 bar.
If it is not the expansion tank them the water must be getting too hot?
I lowered the boiler output using the knob on the control panel label "heating temperature control". From a series of indicators on the control panel the boiler temperature was 10-20 degree lower and the boiler would turn the main gas burner off, but leave the pump running until the system's temperature was low enough to bring the main burner back on. The control system did seem to be working. Pressure was a bit better at 2.8 bar not as much heat at the radiators at the other end of the system.
I still can not figure out why the system is running at too high a pressure and I have had to fix a couple of leaks inside the boiler due to the higher pressure.
The radiators are getting hot, so I don't suspect the pump too much, could be wrong there though.
My best guess was the temperature sensor on the output side of the heat exchange is actually producing a wrong reading and the boiler stays on way too long. So tonight I use a temperature meter and thermocouple placed next to the heating sensor. Here's what I found ...
Open the tap in the kitchen and let the domestic hot water run flat out. The pressure increases from 1 to 1.2 bar. The control panel shows the temp increasing from 40-50-60-70 centigrade, the Fluke meter shows the output of the heat exchanger at 65C. To me everything is stable and we have lots of hot water in the kitchen.
Now go turn the room thermostat way up and command central heating. The temp drops to 40C and the pressure rises a little to 1.5bar. 5 minutes later the temp is at 50C and pressure at 2 bar. 10 minutes later the temp is only at 55C and yet pressure is not at maximum 2.5 bar. Test aborted as clearly the system is not over temperature.
The resistance of the temperature sensor near the heat exchanger is compared with the one at the output of the DHW exchanger and found to be within 10% during the tests.
So, I am stumped, why the increase in systems pressure during central heating. Of course this may have been a deteriation in the system over the past few weeks and it is not until the boiler doesn't come on one morning due to low pressure you realise something is wrong.
All thoughts and comments welcome, even funny ones
I think I have given way to much info, sorry for making you read it all, which of my assumptions are wrong?
Confused John of Essex ...
I have a Radiant RSF24, 27KW combi boiler, located in the integral garage and heating the house and supplying hot water. I was short of money about 8 or 9 years ago and installed the boiler and a few extra rads myself and got a corgi engineer to come and connect it to the gas supply and commission the boiler.
It was working fine until last year, then the pilot light kept going out. Not too difficult that one, faulty thermocouple. Those nice design people combined the thermocouple with the safety stats into one harness, so a little more tricky and expensive to replace than it need be.
Then a couple of months ago, hot water but no heating. Didn't take me too long to figure out the divertor valve wasn't working and replaced the syncron motor.
Last month the boiler kept going out, pilot light as well. Took me a little while to work out the exhaust fan was sticking. Stripped it down and left the bearings in WD40 for a couple of hours and despite the play on the shaft it has been running nicely ever since.
Most recent fault has got me complete stumped though. I will describe what I see as the symptons but I can't figure out the root cause, maybe one the more experienced Gentlemen can lend a hand ....
The system is pressurised to just over 1 bar. If hot water is commanded then everything appears to work normally and the system pressure is only elevated by about 0.2 bar, even with the hot tap running for 10-15 minutes at just over 10 litres per minute.
When the central heating comes on, the system pressure starts to rise gradually. Over a period of say 20 minutes the system has reached 3 bar and is blowing water out the pressure relief valve - had plastic bottle outside the house to make sure and it collected about half a litre.
When the system gets cold, the pressure is now below 1 bar and will not come back on due to "low water level". So why is the pressure getting too high?
At first I thought it might be the expansion vessel so I checked the pressure and it was still at the recommended 1 bar. I pumped it up a bit, let some air out (not water thankfully) and pumped it back to 1 bar.
If it is not the expansion tank them the water must be getting too hot?
I lowered the boiler output using the knob on the control panel label "heating temperature control". From a series of indicators on the control panel the boiler temperature was 10-20 degree lower and the boiler would turn the main gas burner off, but leave the pump running until the system's temperature was low enough to bring the main burner back on. The control system did seem to be working. Pressure was a bit better at 2.8 bar not as much heat at the radiators at the other end of the system.
I still can not figure out why the system is running at too high a pressure and I have had to fix a couple of leaks inside the boiler due to the higher pressure.
The radiators are getting hot, so I don't suspect the pump too much, could be wrong there though.
My best guess was the temperature sensor on the output side of the heat exchange is actually producing a wrong reading and the boiler stays on way too long. So tonight I use a temperature meter and thermocouple placed next to the heating sensor. Here's what I found ...
Open the tap in the kitchen and let the domestic hot water run flat out. The pressure increases from 1 to 1.2 bar. The control panel shows the temp increasing from 40-50-60-70 centigrade, the Fluke meter shows the output of the heat exchanger at 65C. To me everything is stable and we have lots of hot water in the kitchen.
Now go turn the room thermostat way up and command central heating. The temp drops to 40C and the pressure rises a little to 1.5bar. 5 minutes later the temp is at 50C and pressure at 2 bar. 10 minutes later the temp is only at 55C and yet pressure is not at maximum 2.5 bar. Test aborted as clearly the system is not over temperature.
The resistance of the temperature sensor near the heat exchanger is compared with the one at the output of the DHW exchanger and found to be within 10% during the tests.
So, I am stumped, why the increase in systems pressure during central heating. Of course this may have been a deteriation in the system over the past few weeks and it is not until the boiler doesn't come on one morning due to low pressure you realise something is wrong.
All thoughts and comments welcome, even funny ones
I think I have given way to much info, sorry for making you read it all, which of my assumptions are wrong?
Confused John of Essex ...