Radiator Removal

[Skavenger]

Hello

Just completed a one night a week 11 week recreational plumbing course and about to embark on my first DIY task REMOVING A RADIATOR FOR DECORATING!!

Simple task however would'nt want to get it wrong.

The Central Heating is run from a British Gas C1 Combi Boiler.

Before removing the Radiator I'll switch of the heating then close both taps on the radiator. Each radiator has a normal tap and a heat control tap. I vaguely remember something about the fact that these taps do not close of completley if so how do I prevent a leak.
I thought you had to take off the top of the heat control tap and put another cap on it to close it off?

Once closed I'll disconnect the radiator leaving the taps on the pipework and lift the radiator off of the wall bracket and tip upside down.

A friend said that the taps in place would close but put a rubber glove over the tap just to be sure?? sounds like waffle to me.

The radiator is on the same level as the Combi boiler on the top floor of the house so if it did drain it would only drain the top of the heating system?

When the decorating is finished I'll reconnect and switch on the heating and then open the bleed valve on the radiator that was removed to allow the radiator to refill, probably have to bleed all radiators on the top floor.

Any help would be great

 

[bab]

Not allowed to swear but . 11 nights training. Where the F were U. Also pull the rubber glove over ya mates head & tell him to inhale. You say ya gona disconnect the rad & take it off. Its under 1 bar pressure & full a f water that needs draining out. MORE IMPORTANT THAN GETTING WET u dont switch the heating on before u fill up. After u have filled the rad & recharged the system to 1 bar u can the fire the boiler.

 

[Skavenger]

Ok not really sure if the last post helped at all??

Previous posts do not mention draining down the system they discuss closing the valves on the Radiator to prevent a flood and removing the radiator, ensuring that as soon as its undone you block the Radiator and tip it upside down to prevent further leakage. Why drain the radiator?

I have checked the Radiator Valves and they too are British Gas, the temperature control valve only closes to * so do not close completely. There does not appear to be any obvious way of removing them to close them off, using alterative caps or 5p pieces.

When you say reffil the system prior to firing up the boiler how do I do that, its a combi boiler with no filler tank.

 

[ChrisR]

If you just undo the rad valves water will hit the ceiling and all the walls. Turn boiler mains off.
Find drain cock on pipes or bottom of combi. Attach hose to relieve pressure.
Turn off rad valves. You should use "decorator's cap" for the thermostatic valve head which will shut it. Or remove head and insert 5p coin(s) or similar, refit head and close - don't break it.
Rad is still full of water so loosen union and undo vent and let all water into a tray. Wet vac handy.
Undo other union and lift away. If valves haven't shut right off you need 1/2" or 3/4" bsp caps with ptfe to seal.
Use filling loop to refill boiler to 1 bar, then you can turn it on.
Read all the ref section bits first.

You'll need to refill the boiler again when you replace the rad.

 

[Skavenger]

>If you just undo the rad valves water will hit the ceiling and all the walls.

I understand that just undoing the rad valves will cause a flood!!

>Turn Bolier Mains Off.

Mains Electricity or water?

>Find drain cock on pipes or bottom of combi. Attach hose to relieve >pressure.

Sorry I do not follow,

>Turn off rad valves. You should use "decorator's cap" for the >thermostatic valve head which will shut it. Or remove head and insert >5p coin(s) or similar, refit head and close - don't break it.

The thermostatic valve head is removed by undoing a hand tight lock nut so I can fit a "decorators cap". The other side has a cap held on by a screw, if I remove the cap I can close this valve with an adjustable?

>Rad is still full of water so loosen union and undo vent and let all water >into a tray. Wet vac handy.

Happy with that but does the Rad need to be emptied? My system is filled with an inhibitor (2001), would like to leave most of it in, will cause a bit more of a problem when refitting the Rad I know.

>Undo other union and lift away. If valves haven't shut right off you >need 1/2" or 3/4" bsp caps with ptfe to seal.

Happy

>Use filling loop to refill boiler to 1 bar, then you can turn it on.
>Read all the ref section bits first.

I have found the filling loop, its a metal braided hose running from the rising main to the central heating pipe, it does not have a tap on it only a screw grommet is this closed by default?
Refilling prior to refitting the Rad Is so that you can operate the central heating while decorating? Will the heating work with a radiator removed?

>You'll need to refill the boiler again when you replace the rad.

Yep understood

N.B. We have noticed that the boiler pressure is at about 1/2 Bar when cold, should it be a 1 Bar if so should I attempt to open the filling loop to raise the pressure.
Switched the heating on about 10 Minutes ago and it is now reading just above 1 bar.

 

[Nige F]

Who the Fn*ck would do plumbing for recreation .I got confused just reading the posts....There may be enough play up/down in the pipes to allow the rad to slip out the notches in bkts. then with slightly loosened rad valve unions the rad might pivot thru 90degrees an lay outa the way .... but then, what do I know

 

[Softus]

If you just undo the rad valves water will hit the ceiling and all the walls.

I understand that just undoing the rad valves will cause a flood!!

I think the point that you're missing, through no particular fault of your own, is that the water inside the rad will be at more than atmospheric pressure, so you need to relieve that pressure elsewhere in order to avoid getting a very wet face, hands, chest, wallpaper, ceiling, cat, wife, etc..

Turn Bolier Mains Off.

Mains Electricity or water?

Both.

Find drain cock on pipes or bottom of combi. Attach hose to relieve pressure.

Sorry I do not follow,

This means that you need to find the drain point, aka drain off cock, that will be underneath the boiler. Attach a garden hose to this, securing it with a jubilee clip, and, after isolating the boiler, open the drain cock so that water drains out. Oh, and point the other end of the hose either outside or into a bucket.

Turn off rad valves. You should use "decorator's cap" for the thermostatic valve head which will shut it. Or remove head and insert 5p coin(s) or similar, refit head and close - don't break it.

The thermostatic valve head is removed by undoing a hand tight lock nut so I can fit a "decorators cap". The other side has a cap held on by a screw, if I remove the cap I can close this valve with an adjustable?

Yes.

Rad is still full of water so loosen union and undo vent and let all water into a tray. Wet vac handy.

Happy with that but does the Rad need to be emptied?

You have no realistic prospect of retaining the contents of the rad.

My system is filled with an inhibitor (2001), would like to leave most of it in, will cause a bit more of a problem when refitting the Rad I know.

Personally I wouldn't bother trying to keep it, but then I have to charge the cost of trying to do so, which would generally cost more in labour than in buying a new dose.

Use filling loop to refill boiler to 1 bar, then you can turn it on.
Read all the ref section bits first.

I have found the filling loop, its a metal braided hose running from the rising main to the central heating pipe, it does not have a tap on it only a screw grommet is this closed by default?

Should be; often isn't though - you need to double check that it is.

Refilling prior to refitting the Rad Is so that you can operate the central heating while decorating? Will the heating work with a radiator removed?

Yes, but the room without the rad will be cold.

N.B. We have noticed that the boiler pressure is at about 1/2 Bar when cold, should it be a 1 Bar if so should I attempt to open the filling loop to raise the pressure.

Yes. Although, to be pedantic, you should do more than attempt it, you should achieve it!

Switched the heating on about 10 Minutes ago and it is now reading just above 1 bar.

It should be raised to 1 bar when cold.

 

[HarrogateGas]

Just do whatever you think or feel like at the time.........i do and it makes my working life a lot more fun!!!!n Splash Splash!

 

[Softus]

Just do whatever you think or feel like at the time.........i do and it makes my working life a lot more fun!!!!n Splash Splash!

And at whom is your feckless advice aimed, HG?

 

[DSL]

I simply turn the thermostatic valve on the radiator to zero (i.e. off!) and close the lockshield valve at the other end. This effectively isolates the radiator from the system so it can then be uncoupled, slowly at first (1/8th turn) to release the pressure, whilst draining the radiator into a suitable container. Opening the bleed lets the air in and speeds up the process.
Once empty, lift and remove.
[Alternatively you could just release the pressure then tilt the radiator 90 degrees (with the water still in), retighten, decorate, then put the radiator back].

If the valves arent shutting off properly you could always stick caps on (as ChrisR suggested).

 

[Skavenger]

I managed to remove the radiator without draining down the system.
Closed the Lockshield valve and closed the Thermostat valve by inserting a small foreign coin to enable full closure.
Took off the Radiator emptied it and have now finished decorating.

I am about to re-fit the radiator and have posted another topic on whether to add a small amount of inhibitor (Same as already installed Sentinel X100) to make up for the cold water that I will be adding.

In order to refil the Radiator I have been advised to:

1. Turn off Heating
2. Re-fit radiator
3. Open thermostat vlave.
4. Opem Bleed key to allow radiator to fill slightly
5. Close Bleed key.
6. Open Fill Loop raise pressure to 1 Bar then close
7. Open Bleed key to relese additional air.
8. Open Lockshield valve
9. Switch on heating, bleed radiator as required
10. Re pressurise using fill loop as required.

Does that sound OK or have I missed something?

 

[kevplumb]

sounds good