A friend wants me to plumb a granny flat which basically is about the size of a garage 3 metres wide x 6 metres long split into 3 roms; bathroom = 1m90mm x 3m, bedroom =3m x3m, and living room with open kitchen = 3m x 3m930 mm. The height from the solid concrete floor to the ceiling is 2m 400mm. There are 2 window openings with dimensions 2m260mm wide x 1m300 from base to lintel and this is split between the living room/kitchen and bedroom,with the other window approx 900mm x 890mm in the bathroom.
There is a door to outside which i have no dimensions for in the living room. A double block cavity internal wall spans the 3 rooms which he said had timber behind it and double block cavity external walls make up the rest.Timber stud split up the rooms which he said hed plasterboard,and the roof is pitched.
The old oil burning boiler has been removed from which is now the bathroom with the what i assume to be the 22mm flow and return copper pipes just standing there on their own rising up out of the floor with the pump positioned on the bottom pipe which has to be the return. I dont think he drained the system down because he said when he removed the 22mm top or flow pipe water was gushing out hence the ballfix on the end.
The bungalow has 10 other rads 6 singles and 3 doubles ranging from 28 inches to 44 inches,all at 20 inches ht.
My question is this, is there a practical rule of thumb based on experience for sizing the rads and the boiler required. What i mean is would an experienced plumber be able to look at above scenario and go, bang,bang,bang, heres the sizes of rads and boiler you need,or would he also have to go through the rigorous calculations of heat loss w = room volume[m3] x temp diff[ 0C] x number of air changes per hour x a constant fig of 0.33 not to mention heat loss through building fabric, plus the rest.
I understand he would have to do this on a large property but would he just use a simpler method here. your advice is much appreciated.
There is a door to outside which i have no dimensions for in the living room. A double block cavity internal wall spans the 3 rooms which he said had timber behind it and double block cavity external walls make up the rest.Timber stud split up the rooms which he said hed plasterboard,and the roof is pitched.
The old oil burning boiler has been removed from which is now the bathroom with the what i assume to be the 22mm flow and return copper pipes just standing there on their own rising up out of the floor with the pump positioned on the bottom pipe which has to be the return. I dont think he drained the system down because he said when he removed the 22mm top or flow pipe water was gushing out hence the ballfix on the end.
The bungalow has 10 other rads 6 singles and 3 doubles ranging from 28 inches to 44 inches,all at 20 inches ht.
My question is this, is there a practical rule of thumb based on experience for sizing the rads and the boiler required. What i mean is would an experienced plumber be able to look at above scenario and go, bang,bang,bang, heres the sizes of rads and boiler you need,or would he also have to go through the rigorous calculations of heat loss w = room volume[m3] x temp diff[ 0C] x number of air changes per hour x a constant fig of 0.33 not to mention heat loss through building fabric, plus the rest.
I understand he would have to do this on a large property but would he just use a simpler method here. your advice is much appreciated.
.cabin pack would be a nice solution avoid the condensors if you can bassets are still knocking out standard warmflows/turcos if it helps.
