Radiator valve only turns a tiny bit

[dominoman]

One of my radiators doesn't work at all. Before exploring other options I would like to make sure the valve is open.

When I try and turn the valve it only turns about one quarter turn. I've tried it clockwise and anticlockwise.

I then took off the cover and tried to use pliers to turn it, but no joy.

What should I try next?

Mike

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• dominoman
• 20 Nov 2014
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• dominoman
• 21 Nov 2014
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• dominoman
• 21 Nov 2014
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[Burnerman]

Are there any other working valves that you can look at (maybe the one on the opposite end of the rad?)
If you can find one that you know is open, measure from the bottom of the splines to the top of the nut......on an open valve, the distance will be greater.
John

 

[dominoman]

Yes - the other valves turn fully and open and close without a problem. This one just appears to be stuck.

I tried to force it using strong pump pliers but any more force and it would shear off.

Should i remove the nut in the centre? I don't know how these valves are put together.

 

[Burnerman]

It looks like the upper, smaller hexagon nut would unscrew, to release the gland packing......but if the whole insert starts to turn, then stop.
Have you looked at the shaft length, compared to the other valves?
John

 

[dominoman]

I managed to undo the small hexagon nut. Once I undid that the whole centre spindle came out when I unscrewed it.

However there was no water flowing (the radiator isnt drained and others work fine - though unfortunately none use this same valve type so I cant compare).

When the centre shaft is "closed" or "open" the shaft length is exactly the same. It seems it isn't turning the mechanism inside

Any ideas? I'm stuck! Thanks

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• dominoman
• 22 Nov 2014
• 1

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• dominoman
• 22 Nov 2014
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[Gasguru]

It's a cheap carp valve....the threads are too course with such poor tolerances that they jam as you try to turn it. I guess there's a further part inside the valve body that may have jammed too. Plenty of silicon grease on the threads and the O rings may get it working for now.

If you're lucky the O rings won't leak but replacement with a quality valve is the way forward.

 

[twgas]

Reinsert the spindle but 'unscrew it' when you've pushed it as far as you can, although I say push very little force should be needed. When you've 'unscrewed' it till it stops refit the gland nut in the normal way but only finger tight. You should now be able to 'unscrew' the spindle some more and hopefully that will cure your problem. Then just nip up the gland nut, which only holds it together so it doesn't need thrashing up to avoid leaks, thats the job of the 2 o-rings.

 

[dominoman]

Reinsert the spindle but 'unscrew it' when you've pushed it as far as you can, although I say push very little force should be needed. When you've 'unscrewed' it till it stops refit the gland nut in the normal way but only finger tight. You should now be able to 'unscrew' the spindle some more and hopefully that will cure your problem. Then just nip up the gland nut, which only holds it together so it doesn't need thrashing up to avoid leaks, thats the job of the 2 o-rings.

Thanks. I tried that and managed to free it up a bit - but not enough to get it working.

The next time I tried the washers had disintegrated. I think it's time to give up and buy a new valve. I have to drain the system next weekend anyway so will change it for a new one.

Thanks for all the help