Radiator valves, question

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We have 6 radiators on a combi boiler. The one in the hallway has a thermostat on the wall, so there is no control valve on the radiator.

Every other room has a control valve on each radiator. The one in the kitchen has a control valve on it, but is is broken so it just spins instead of turning the heat up and down.

My question is, should the valve in the kitchen be able to control the heat of the radiator so it just broken, or is it meant to be that way?
 
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Define a control valve.....do you mean a thermostatic radiator valve or a lockshield type valve. Locksheilds are not designed to be constantly adjusted. If you mean a TRV and it just spins then yes it's broken and won't be controlling temp.....your last sentence doesn't make sense....
 
yes, the hallways is a lockshield as you called it... it is not meant to be turned.

Sorry I have edited my last sentence :LOL:

The problem radiator is the kitchen one that is a thermostatic valve that turns the heat of each radiator up and down. That looks broken, but I don't know if it was meant to be that way when the central heating was installed many years ago.

Should I replace this valve that looks broken?
 
If it just spins and won't turn off the rad then yes, change it. You may be able to just change the head (plastic bit) but you need the exact model....if it's really old just replace it.
 
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Thank you :D

All of my radiators are pretty old now, and I was thinking of either getting a power-flush or just replacing them.

The bedroom radiator can't be bled as the place where you put the key to bleed it, just turns.

The living room radiator is cold at the bottom and only warm at the top

Anyone have any opinions which I should do? Replace or flush?

Thanks so much
 
A powerflush would cost you between 250 - 350 approx. Weigh that against about say 500-800 approx to replace your rads. If they are that old then flushing may just delay the inevitable replacement in say 1-3 yrs. If you think they could go another 5-10 power flush. Just be aware that although your symptoms indicate a flush may be the right course you should get a professional to look at your system first, in case there are other issues (balancing, air in system, kinked pipes etc). Good luck
 
Thanks so much, you have been very helpful :D

I might just get new radiators. Can I replace them from single to double radiators? Or even replace them all with single and just have 1 double in the living room?
 
Summer is here and this is a good time to be working on your heating system.

Have a look at all the valves that you think need changing, e.g. they do not work or show signs of leaking esp round the spindle. If they are all old it would be a good idea to renew them all. I also recommend putting lockshields with drain-offs on the downstairs rads, especially any near an external door that you can put a hose through, and they are essential on any rads fed with pipes that come down from the ceiling.

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You may find your old drain cocks are choked or perished and need new washers, so this is a good time to fix them.
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TRVs are much more expensive than ordinary valves (which are very cheap). Drayton make a TRV4. Danfoss a Ras-C². they are both good ones. there are cheap ones at the DIY sheds for half that which may not last...

If you buy a Radiator Wrench/Spanner/Key for a few pounds (it is an L shaped hexagonal tool) you will probably find you can unscrew the plug in the broken bleed screw in it, and fit a new plug and screw. If you look at replacement bleed plugs in the DIY or plumbing shop you will see how they work. You can use the same key to unscrew the throat of the old rad valve (warning: the rad must be firmly fixed to the wall while you do this).

If you can run the pump for a few weeks with a desludging chemical like Sentinel X400 it will loosen a lot of old sludge so that it comes out when you drain. I don't suppose you want to run the heating at this time of year so maybe do that when the colder weather comes.

If you can drain down the system and take the rads into the garden, you can squirt out the sediment with a garden hose, this is quite effective.

Bale out any mud from the Feed & Expansion tank in the loft (if you have one)

When refilling, it is essential to use a corrosion inhibitor such as X100.

the chemical will cost you about £15 each.

If you can do basic plumbing and afford an extra £100, a Magnaclean will delight you by trapping a lot of circulating black sediment.

p.s if any of your rads show signs of rust, replace them.
If any of the rads seem undersized (i.e. room slow to warm up) it will not hurt to replace doubles with singles. If they have TRVs then the room will not get over-hot.
Manual drain and flush, with X400, and preferably a Magnaclean, will get a lot of dirt out, and may avoid the need for a costly powerflush. As it is so cheap to DIY it is always worth trying, it will certainly do no harm and will probably do a lot of good.

i am just a householder.
 
One last question.... I promise!

If I decide to replace all/some of the radiators, should I still go ahead with the power-flush first?
 
If it was me, I would postpone the powerflush until I'd done some DIY cleaning and any other renovations.

£15 for a bottle of X400, plus an afternoon of draining and flushing, will make a useful difference.

£100 on a Magnaclean as well will make a lot more.

That might result in a few hundred pounds staying in my pocket.

I see no point in paying to clean radiators that you're about to remove.
 
Is it possible to do a DIY lowpowerflush using a hose from the tap??
(after disconnecting the ends in the boiler).
 
Thanks so much, you have been a great help :D

I don't know how to drain my combi boiler, but I guess it can't be too hard.

When I refill the system, do I have to balance the radiators or bleed them?
 
Remember that sludge (the nasty stuff that blocks and corrodes) is in the whiole heating system, not just the rads. So, if you replace rads you still need to clean the system.

No issues with what JohnD advocates, just a power flush is exactly that, a motorised pump uses hot water and chemicals to clean system (and boiler by definition) and will clean the system more efficiently. JohnD's solution would not work in a combi solution (no header tank etc) You can still flush through a combi but we are getting into serious DIYer territory.

In short, if you replace some/all of the rads the system will need cleaning.....and inhibiting afterwards.....else your shiny new rads will sludge up
 

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