RANDALL 103 HEATING CONTROLLER WIRING

Joined
22 Jan 2007
Messages
31
Reaction score
0
Location
Lancashire
Country
United Kingdom
IM TRYING TO SWAP MY OLD BROKEN HEATING CONTROLLER TIMER, ITS AN OLD TWIST AND CLICK ONE, IVE GAT A COMBI BOILER AND THE HEATING IS CONTROLLED WITH THE ABOVE, IT IS A DAILY TIMER, IM REPLACING IT WITH A DIGISTAT RF 2: WIRELESS 24 HOUR PROGRAMMABLE THERMOSTAT

THE RANDAL UNIT HAS TERMINALS 123[4 which go,s to mains supply]5 and 6
there is 2 power cables leading from above, on the first cable,,yellow to 1, red to 3, green/yellow to 4, blue to 5,,,on cable 2,,green/yellow to 4, blue to 5 and brown to 6

on the unit im fitting it has terminals marked N L 1 2 3 4
any ideas on the wiring, i have gat a diagram of all the wiring units and there layout, its on one page
 
Sponsored Links
IM TRYING TO SWAP MY OLD BROKEN HEATING CONTROLLER TIMER, ITS AN OLD TWIST AND CLICK ONE, IVE GAT A COMBI BOILER AND THE HEATING IS CONTROLLED WITH THE ABOVE, IT IS A DAILY TIMER, IM REPLACING IT WITH A DIGISTAT RF 2: WIRELESS 24 HOUR PROGRAMMABLE THERMOSTAT

THE RANDAL UNIT HAS TERMINALS 123[4 which go,s to mains supply]5 and 6
there is 2 power cables leading from above, on the first cable,,yellow to 1, red to 3, green/yellow to 4, blue to 5,,,on cable 2,,green/yellow to 4, blue to 5 and brown to 6

on the unit im fitting it has terminals marked N L 1 2 3 4
any ideas on the wiring, i have gat a diagram of all the wiring units and there layout, its on one page

I may have a new one of these if interested
 
According to Danfoss Randall, terminal 4 is earth, 5 & 6 are supply. The switch is made between terminals 1 & 3.
At the moment is seems you have a supply cable (cable 2) and the control cable (cable 1). Are there any links in the time switch? Can you post some photos? A picture of the instruction manual wiring instructions will also help.
 
Sponsored Links
I think the RF2 does not use terminal 4, so it's L, N, 1, 2, 3.

If used on a combi with it's own switched output then use 1 and 3 on the RF2.
It will also need a Live and Neutral that plays no part with 1 & 3.

If used on a boiler requiring a switched supply only, then link Live to 1 and switch return on 3 to boiler trigger.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Back
Top