I have a Ravenheat RSF 84ET combi boiler which has just started making a kettling noise. I have recently added an extra radiator to my heating system (ground floor bathroom) & added a sludge remover when refilling . I left the sludge remover running in the system for a couple of weeks as specified in instructions but have now inherited this noise. I have drained the system & flushed it through & added an inhibitor, but the noise is still there. Can anybody help me!!!
Ravenheat Kettling!!!
- Thread starter Bazzaroo
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Kettling, two sugars please
sounds like it needs a proper powerflush.and i would change the boiler as you will always have problems with this rubbish boiler
This make is capable of perfectly good service BUT its essential that its properly commissioned and the water is properly treated.
The problem is that people who buy the cheaper boilers usually skimp with everything else.
Perhaps you could identify the make and type of sludge remover and inhibiter that you have used?
Did you know that sludge remover will not deal effectively with limescale?
Tony Glazier
The problem is that people who buy the cheaper boilers usually skimp with everything else.
Perhaps you could identify the make and type of sludge remover and inhibiter that you have used?
Did you know that sludge remover will not deal effectively with limescale?
Tony Glazier
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Thanks for your comments Tony. I live in a soft water area & do not usually suffer from limescale though. I used Flushex sludge remover & Protex central heating inhibitor. Do you think if perhaps I had used Fernox or Sentinel it would make a difference.
Is the cap on the Auto air vent loose about one turn as it should be?
When you call for hot water by turning on the tap your boiler acts like an instantaneous water heater and the water is heated as it passes. Too slow a flow here or excess scale as suggested by Tony is the most likely cause.
However because this is a combi there is also CH water in the heat exchanger as well. If this remains static it will kettle. So the pump runs and pumps the water through the HE back through the diverter valve, through a bypass and back to the pump.
[There is no secondary HE on this model ... CH and DHW all goes through the Heat exchanger in seperate but adjacent pipes]
Any reduced flow in this circuit would cause kettling so your diverter valve is a very likely place for a blockage. Pump and HE are suspect too.
A few months ago I powerflushed a system prior to renewing one of these boilers that had been a victim of bad installation not to mention abuse and neglect. It too was kettling badly. What I found during a post mortem was that the top inlet to the diverter valve was full of crud and I mean full of it. There were pieces of rust in there about 5mm in diameter.
Too much gas getting through is another possible cause of kettling. I know this should all be Corgi work but checking and adjusting the gas pressure should not be done by DIYers.
How you tackle it is up to you but in your shoes I would go straight for the diverter valve then check the pump. HE is unlikely but not to be ruled out. Then stick in a new Ch thermistor. A total cost of half a bucket of sweat
plus about a tenner for the thermistor which is considered to be a 'service item' for most Ravenheats.
After that get a Corgi guy to check burner pressure or just use a plain old FBH
However because this is a combi there is also CH water in the heat exchanger as well. If this remains static it will kettle. So the pump runs and pumps the water through the HE back through the diverter valve, through a bypass and back to the pump.
[There is no secondary HE on this model ... CH and DHW all goes through the Heat exchanger in seperate but adjacent pipes]
Any reduced flow in this circuit would cause kettling so your diverter valve is a very likely place for a blockage. Pump and HE are suspect too.
A few months ago I powerflushed a system prior to renewing one of these boilers that had been a victim of bad installation not to mention abuse and neglect. It too was kettling badly. What I found during a post mortem was that the top inlet to the diverter valve was full of crud and I mean full of it. There were pieces of rust in there about 5mm in diameter.
Too much gas getting through is another possible cause of kettling. I know this should all be Corgi work but checking and adjusting the gas pressure should not be done by DIYers.
How you tackle it is up to you but in your shoes I would go straight for the diverter valve then check the pump. HE is unlikely but not to be ruled out. Then stick in a new Ch thermistor. A total cost of half a bucket of sweat
plus about a tenner for the thermistor which is considered to be a 'service item' for most Ravenheats.After that get a Corgi guy to check burner pressure or just use a plain old FBH
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Bazzaroo said:
So you bought the cheapest stuff available.
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