RDB motor testing

M

martineire

Can anyone tell me how to test the motor on a riello RDB burner i cant test the white wire with a multi meter for 52V because all the wires on the motor are connect together via a plastic clip that just connects straight into the control box (push fit) you will know what i mean if ya you are fimiliar with a RDB. Or is it just a case of replacing to see if its at fault. :idea:
 
Sponsored Links
Burner is not firing, motor is spining its just going through that 12sec purge without firing i replaced photocell, i have pressure gauge connect to pump cracked open bleed nut on manafold, oil horses out so pump drive coupling is ok. i tested solenoid coil im getting over 100 ohms i have replaced control box and it still not firing so im either thinking stem valve is duff on pump or white wire on motor is not giving out 52v. What ya think? can i test the motor on a RDB
 
Sponsored Links
No not going to lockout motor just running none stop. Dont know control box im at home i was looking at this burner for someone. i guess there is only one type of control box for a riello RBD. Im baffled, its either motor not giving out 52V to control box, stem valve or as posted above HT leads. NO way of testing motor on RDB is there
 
No its build into control box (HT leads connect straight into control box)
 
Can anyone answer my question about testing the motor on a riello RDB burner or is it just a case of replacing to see if faulty? Thanks lads
 
or is it just a case of replacing to see if faulty?
Bit of an expensive way if you don't carry a spare motor!!

Remove plug and 'stuff' a short piece of insulated wire into the plug at same side as white wire and replace plug. You now have small tail where you can measure voltage. Or ask wife for dressmaking pins and push one through the insulation. It's normally easy to supply test points with a little lateral thinking!

I have repaired loads of these but cannot recall replacing motor because of loss of power on white.
 
is this an rdb fitted on a camray?

if failing to lockout then the cheapest 2 parts to change and the most likely cause will be ht leads and/or ignition probes.

on the above units the control box will not go to lockout until it has received a signal back that it has tried to ignite.
 
I have never had any problem testing for 50Vac on the White wire, if you have a thin probe on your test lead you can stick it into the connector where the white wire connects, while the motor is still pluggeed onto the control box easy peasy!! ;)
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top