Re coating furniture?

Joined
27 Apr 2008
Messages
9,670
Reaction score
953
Country
United Kingdom
Hello all, this seems the right place for it here seeing as its a wood covering :D

Its a dressing table from Jan 1960 that I got off of Freecycle.
It did have a Beech veneer coating on it that was pretty well stained & mucky etc.

I have started sanding it down & have removed the stained beech veneer that was on it & now have a lovely wood finish (plywood lol) that I can treat as I wish.

What I am thinking of doing is staining it light oak & perhaps putting on a waxed finish.

I have never used a waxed finish before, usually plumping for varnish but I think that something that needs lots of fine rubbing (lol) might be a bit better & give a better look.

I have heard of french polish & seen stain/polish at the sheds but am keen to find out what would be the best finish & how to go about it?
(I also have to bear in mind the costs).

Er indoors just wants it stained & varnished as cheaply as poss, but I'm a bit more of a fusspot & want to do it better.


Will a waxed finish make it as durable as varnish if its having lots of tins & tubs of make up & other such facial gunk on it?

What would you recommend I apply & in what order & how etc?

Thank you.
Matty

Here it is when I started.

Here you can see the veneer top I wanted rid of:

Here you can see what it looks like once I have done most of the sanding & wiped it down.

WE may forgo the stain & just use clear wax- recommendations anyone?
 
Sponsored Links
It's very much up to you, wax is in my opinion much nicer but harder work and less resistant to liquids or heat etc. It will also need re applied every so often. French polish with wax over the top is a cracking finish but a lot of work and if you haven't done it before can be difficult on something that size. If i was you i would go with a coat of matt varnish followed by a good few coats of a nice low sheen paste wax. Liberon make good wax.

This way you get the best out of both situations where the wax can simply be for aesthetics and can be easily removed and replaced if it rings or marks badly.

If you want to go the whole hog then google some wood finishing techniques for waxing / polishing etc
 
Cheers, sounds like a plan.

Leave it natural, we have plenty of varnish.
I have found wax on the bay here is that the sort I should be using?

I take it that I wash it down with white spirit, wait 1/2 hr, brush on the varnish with a fine brush, perhaps 2 coats.

Wait a day or so for it to dry fully & harden then apply the wax (with a brush?) with the grain then buff it down?
 
Links in this post may contain affiliate links for which DIYnot may be compensated.
Sponsored Links
Yea that's pretty much the gist. After you have varnished it give it a run over with fine sand paper, something like 320.

The wax is a soft solid so You can apply it with a cloth or i prefer very fine 0000 steel wool as it takes some of the sheen off it and makes it look a little duller and more wax-like. Leave it a few hours and then buff it with a soft cloth. Give it at least two coats or as many as you like to add depth.
 
Are you saying that I apply the wax with wire wool?

OR apply it then go over it with wire wool?
 
Apply the wax with it and then buff it. If its too glossy after buffing you can also use the wire wool to take the shine off if you prefer.
 
I have given it several coats of varnish.

While at Ikea at the weekend I got a tin of Liquid beeswax.

Not sure how good that is but am going to try it.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top