re-new built in ovens

[joesoap1]

Hi Guys, thinking of changing my Neff built in oven , just a single with grill, plain and simple.
I notice all new ones are way lower rated than mine, which is 2.8 Kw.
The indesit,0.8 Kw, even comes with a plug fitted, mines wired in.
Even expensive ones are even around 1 Kw, is this the norm today?
energy efficiency, but, what about cooking times?
any advice appreciated.cheers

 

[Taylortwocities]

Even expensive ones are even around 1 Kw, is this the norm today?
energy efficiency, but, what about cooking times?
any advice appreciated.cheers

It may take a bit longer to get to temperature but if the temperature setting is 200°C then it will stay at 200°C. Cooking time will be the same.
It its a fan oven then the cooking temperature can usually be reduced.

 

[EFLImpudence]

I think you may be referring to 0.8kWh which is the consumption rate, i.e. 1 unit every 1.25 ( 10/8 ) hours, not the rating of the elements.

 

[joesoap1]

I think you may be referring to 0.8kWh which is the consumption rate, i.e. 1 unit every 1.25 ( 10/8 ) hours, not the rating of the elements.

Hi EFL, thanks for reply, it is consumption, but, there is nothing on the stats of the oven , saying what Kw the elements are.
Neff are very expensive, so just want a cheapie, don,t use oven much now, brown, but, like ford now, only in black.all mine is brown neff.
So it should do the job ok then, irrespective of element size.just that bit longer as T said?

 

[joesoap1]

Even expensive ones are even around 1 Kw, is this the norm today?
energy efficiency, but, what about cooking times?
any advice appreciated.cheers

It may take a bit longer to get to temperature but if the temperature setting is 200°C then it will stay at 200°C. Cooking time will be the same.
It its a fan oven then the cooking temperature can usually be reduced.

Hi T, thanks for reply also, it, is fan , as you say, it will take longer to reach temp,never come across a full sized oven with a 3 pin plug on before? The star rating and reviews on it are good.
cheers

 

[JohnW2]

I think you may be referring to 0.8kWh which is the consumption rate, i.e. 1 unit every 1.25 ( 10/8 ) hours, not the rating of the elements.

Indeed, and the point there, of course, is that the element will not be 'on' all the time the oven is on, becasue it's controlled by a thermostat. 0.8kWh would therefore not usually mean a 0.8kW element working continuously but, rather, probably a 2kW-3kW element which was actually 'on' for only a small proportion of 1 hour's cooking time. The full specification of the oven obvioulsy should 'reveal all'.

Kind Regards, John

 

[Taylortwocities]

Smaller single ovens often come with a plug.

where you plug it in may depend on the loadings and type of circuit. I guess this is to connect to the existing cooker circuit?


If so, just change the cooker connection point to a single 13A socket and you're good to cook.

 

[joesoap1]

Smaller single ovens often come with a plug.

where you plug it in may depend on the loadings and type of circuit. I guess this is to connect to the existing cooker circuit?


If so, just change the cooker connection point to a single 13A socket and you're good to cook.

Hi TTC, The Hob plug is in unit next to the oven, could put another plug alongside it, using the existing cooker wired spur, with fuse, easy enough,thankyou all very much. really helpful, as always

 

[joesoap1]

I think you may be referring to 0.8kWh which is the consumption rate, i.e. 1 unit every 1.25 ( 10/8 ) hours, not the rating of the elements.

Indeed, and the point there, of course, is that the element will not be 'on' all the time the oven is on, becasue it's controlled by a thermostat. 0.8kWh would therefore not usually mean a 0.8kW element working continuously but, rather, probably a 2kW-3kW element which was actually 'on' for only a small proportion of 1 hour's cooking time. The full specification of the oven obvioulsy should 'reveal all'.

Kind Regards, John

Hi J, cheers , it really should give element ratings, but, doesn,t. I know my wiring will take whatever it is, so it should be fine.cheers

 

[JohnW2]

Hi J, cheers , it really should give element ratings, but, doesn,t. I know my wiring will take whatever it is, so it should be fine.cheers

Are you looking at a particular oven? If so, can you tell us the make and model number?

Kind Regards, John

 

[joesoap1]

Hi J, cheers , it really should give element ratings, but, doesn,t. I know my wiring will take whatever it is, so it should be fine.cheers

Are you looking at a particular oven? If so, can you tell us the make and model number?

Kind Regards, John

Hi John, no , not a particular one, as I say, would have like another brown neff,to match hob/dishwasher,but are too dear, I just looked at Currys et.al. and a Indesit was there at £189.looked ok, but,there are others, around £200 , that,s enough for me to pay now. Don,t cook for all family now, just occassionally.Just a basic, oven/grill, medium/large , bog standard oven, 590x 590.
plug and play, as they say. INDESIT FIM31KABK Electric Oven - Black, £185, that,s the one from currys'.not brown, but, unlikely to get one, without paying through the nose.

 

[JohnW2]

INDESIT FIM31KABK Electric Oven - Black, £185, that,s the one from currys'.not brown, but, unlikely to get one, without paying through the nose.

The 'Data Label' of that one says:

voltage: 230-240V ~ 50/60Hz
maximum power absorbed 2250W-2400W

... which indicates that the element(s) are 2.25 - 2.40 kW - although, as you say, the consumption they quote is about 0.8 kWh (for the reasons I explained earlier).
Click here to see manual

Kind Regards, John

 

[SimonH2]

On a Bang Goes the Theory special - the one where they had up to 80 cyclists powering a house - they demonstrated that the heat required for the cooking is very low. The main consumption (once you're up to temperature) is due to heat lost through the walls and when the door is left open. To prove a point, they cooked a chicken with a couple of 60W light bulbs in a DIY oven made of thick insulation to vastly reduce heat loss.

Of course, whilst most kitchens have a cooker connection fed from a 32A breaker, some appliances specifically require a lower fuse rating (as low as 3A for a gas appliance where the lecky is only for ignition and perhaps a timer). So the fitter will wire it straight into the 32A circuit without a fuse

In my mate's kitchen, I've put a dual box in so he can have two different fittings. As it happens, both his appliances need unfused (at the connection point) supplies - but the flexibility is there to swap one or both for sockets or FCUs if needed.

 

[joesoap1]

INDESIT FIM31KABK Electric Oven - Black, £185, that,s the one from currys'.not brown, but, unlikely to get one, without paying through the nose.

The 'Data Label' of that one says:

voltage: 230-240V ~ 50/60Hz
maximum power absorbed 2250W-2400W

... which indicates that the element(s) are 2.25 - 2.40 kW - although, as you say, the consumption they quote is about 0.8 kWh (for the reasons I explained earlier).
Click here to see manual

Kind Regards, John

Thanks John, that,s plenty good enough,practically same as mine;
I do most of my joints in a slow cooker,better; hence, not using oven ,except pork.
can,t do crackling.
appreciate your help, Cheers.Joe

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I do most of my joints in a slow cooker,better; hence, not using oven ,except pork.
can,t do crackling.

Ah - that's easy to sort out.

Still slow-roast the pork at a low temperature (particularly shoulder - you end up with fabulous meltingly soft juicy meat). Then when it's done, and needs its 10-20 minutes resting to allow it to relax, take it out, whack the oven up, remove the rind, scrape off most of the soft fat from the underside of it, and put the rind back in to crisp up.

Result - crackling, and tender slow-roast meat.



Anyway - the kWh figure for an oven is the total amount of energy it needs to do some standardised job (used to be raising the temperature of a saturated wet brick from 5°C to 60°C.).

It allows you to compare one oven with another so you can see which will be the cheapest way to heat up your wet bricks.

It tells you nothing about how much current an oven draws - as an example of the difference between kW and kWh, a 100W light bulb left burning 24 hours per day will use 30% more energy than a 10 minutes under a 10.8kW shower.

If the brick test was the only one, and the oven needed 0.79kWh to do it, but it managed to get the brick to that temperature in 1 minute you'd be looking at a 47.4kW oven. (Assuming no losses).