Re Self leveling over DPM ???

[Yogibear666]

Hi All come across this forum and would really appreciate some assistance.

I moved into my new build nearly 2 months ago now and am having quite a few issues. The plan was to lay American Black Walnut but the hallway floor was not level.

The guy doing it tried to compensate by using more adhesive and most of the wood has cupped. He is no longer working for me.

I've lifted some of the damaged wood which has pulled up the screed layer with it exposing the concrete below in some places but in other the screed layer and DPM is still in place.

How would this normally be tackled? I have two strips of wood from front to back of the building which are un damaged which I don't want to have to pull up as well if possible. I'm going to have to re self level in the areas where the screed has been pulled up and also sort out the dips. Can self leveler be applied over a painted on DPM layer as this is still in place in areas?

I really don't want to have to pull up any more wood especially undamaged as the previous guy has already damaged quite a large quantity and scratched quite a bit in the living room by dragging unopened boxes around on it.

I have approached a couple of other fitters in the area but they wont take on the job started by this other guy so I will have to tackle it myself.

Thanks very much in advance.

 

[chappers]

there are levellers that can be used over a DPM, check out the manufacturers data sheets

 

[vinn]

OP,
You say that you are in a new build (house presumably?) and the sub-floor is concrete?
Why would a liquid DPM have been used on what is probably a mono-raft slab?
Modern slabs are protected by sheet membranes, & worked over by power floats - what you mean by "a not level" surface is unusual. Can you post photos?

 

[Yogibear666]

Hope this helps, I just went by what the fitter said.

Builder levelled the floor, fitter said DPM then glue wood down. I went with what he told me. Lounge is OK it's just the hallway that's screwed up.

Thanks for the replies

 

[vinn]

From what I can see the adhesive was not combed out with a notched trowel (the correct way to glue down) - the adhesive has been incorrectly applied in dabs.

Without going forensic on this, I think the best way forward for you is to vacuum up all debris, and, after priming with recom. primer or even PVA, fill the lifted patches with SLC, let it dry, & then comb out adhesive for the remaining boards.

 

[chappers]

Don't know what adhesive he used but generally wooden flooring adhesives don't like being built up like you can with tile adhesives.
Unfortunately fixing on dabs seems to have become common place and you can get away with it on more stable flooring like, bamboo, but the problem with laying on dabs is you don't get complete coverage and this leaves the undersides of the timber exposed to different conditions where some is covered with adhesive and some isn't.
Personally I would lift the lot and sort it, what you probably have there is some that has failed and some that has yet to fail. Re-level it with something like ardex NA or TA flexi level.

 

[Yogibear666]

I've started lifting some boards tonight, I'm going to leave the first three rows in place. What I think has happened is the floor slopes away and the further out he has gone the more adhesive he has applied to compensate.

I borrowed a laser level of a friend and was measuring and one side is 5mm lower than the centre all along the left side so will need built up.

I would like to pull it up and start again but I don't have the funds to do that or enough wood either.

Is there any easier way to get planks up than a pry bar? Was thinking of screwing a piece of lumber in to the bit to be pulled up then tap it out with a sledge hammer. I've got one bit that I will need to extract length ways and this was the only way I could think to do it without disturbing the se tons around it.

Finally what products am I going to need? Primer I think then self levelling.

What are the best brands to go for? I've looked around the threads but there seam to be a huge veriaty to choose from

 

[Yogibear666]

Ok well spent all weekend working on this from 5:30 Friday till 6:00 Saturday.

Borrowed laser level from a mate marked out what level I though was correct, so board thickness plus 2mm, marked by screwing screws in every 12 inched along the hall

Lifted all of the offending boards. Got myself one of these mini saws , can't recommend enough for cutting out bad boards and then cutting boards all weekend to go back down.

http://www.diy.com/departments/mac-allister-400w-mini-saw-mems400/587920_BQ.prd

So I put down self levelling primer first then levelled the hall way. Followed the instructions to the letter, Went down really well and I barely had to move it about at all. Then applied the paint on dpm.

Whilst the self leveller was setting I put boards down on the opposite site of the hall way.

Sunday morning put boards in the left had side off the hallway. Got my old fret saw out of the shed to do the intricate bits which worked a treat. Tonight put the final two edges in place. Was getting really low on wood so was cutting boards in half and using one half on one edge and the other on the other edge. So finished about mid night, totally exhausted.