Re-tiling bathroom

[macgrl]

Sorry as this is a repost of a thread I mistakenly started in the plastering section.

It should really have gone it here so sorry for the double post

Hello all,

I am re-doing my bathroom and have taken off all the tiles, pretty much 2/3 rds of the room was tiled and will be retiled in the same place. When taking off the tiles some of the plaster underneath came off too so there are patches of bare brick, thin plaster layers and other patches of what seems to be plaster in good condition and not loose. I am planning on re tiling and so the replaster job doesn't need to be perfect but I want to it to be sound.

I am planning on basically filing in the gaps so that the replastered wall is all level and also level with part of the wall above that had no tiles removed and hence that plaster is perfect.

My questions are

i) Do I need to remove the good plaster patches so that I am down to the bare brick all over?

ii) Do I need to coat the brick work and good plaster patches (if they can stay) with a pva mix.

In the pictures you will see that where there is good plaster at the top half of the wall the finishing plaster has been removed as it come off when I took the top half of tiles off (the other tiles below and around the rest of the bathroom where fitted when the house was built and were really set in to the wall hence more of the under plaster came off with the tiles.


pics here - //www.diynot.com/network/macgrl/albums/

I should say and that the pics I have taken are upside down for some reason. So sorry for that... neither myself or the camera were upside down at the time of taking !


Many thanks

Read more: //www.diynot.com/forums/plaste...laster-over-old-plaster.312078/#ixzz1m04RSPl2

 

[Richard C]

The wall will obviously have to be repaired but, as maxsys post your other thread, what you need to do next depends on your tile size/thickness/weight/type; bear in mind that plaster is not an ideal tile base for several reasons. Also consider;

• Plaster has a maximum weight of 20 kg/sqm (when in good condition) so if your tiles weigh more than around 18kg/sqm you have a problem.
• If your tiles weigh more than this, you will need a more suitable tile base; render or, ultimately, tile backer board.
• New plaster skim will take 10-14 days to dry before you can tile; a new base coat & skim will take up to 28 days. Option is to use either quick set render or cement based tile adhesive, which you will need if tiles are larger than around 25cm or over 8mm thick.
• When tiling or re-tiling, there are many things that can catch you out. With walls, you need to consider tile weights, prep & materials & suspended timber floors need special consideration. As before, I would advise you read the Tiling Sticky & Forum Archive posts before doing any work or buying materials, it could prevent you making disastrous & potentially expensive mistakes.
• It’s important to use only quality trade tilling materials of the correct type for your tiles & tile base, cheap own brand & DIY stuff is mostly crap.

If you want to post more info on what you have & what you propose doing, you can get step-by-step advice here.

 

[macgrl]

Thank you very much for your reply.

The tiles are 30 x 40 cm And about 8 mm thick

Hainvg had another think and a look at what is on the walls I was wondering if it is in fact sand and cement that the walls are covered in as the material was very hard much harder than Plaster I have encountered before

I was thing of just applying a cement mix to the areas that there are bare brick and gaps levelling it won't be a problem as I can work from what is already there and then tiling on top. Other than I don't know to be honest


If I can provide any more info that is needed please do let me know.

HeLp is very much appreciated

 

[Maxsys]

A sand and cement render properly applied will be much better than plaster, what type are the tiles, this will dictate the weight, are they marble, porcelain, ceramic or what?

If you do render you will need to leave i think about 28 days for it to dry out before you can tile, as Richard says only use quality trade adhesives and grout.

 

[macgrl]

Thanks for your reply. They travertine effect ceramic tiles. 28 days to dry out ? Really that long.

Cheers
Macgrl

 

[macgrl]

If there is any other details from me that would help please do say

 

[Richard C]

They travertine effect ceramic tiles.

Size/weight? If not how thick?

28 days to dry out ? Really that long.

Skim no; base coat & skim yes, really!

If there is any other details from me that would help please do say

Hmmm not sure exactly how I’m supposed to take that!

 

[Maxsys]

300x400x8mm ceramic i reckon about 1.4Kg each, so about 11.6 Kg p/Sq Mtr + 4Kg for addy and grout, will be fine on a cement rendered background, and yes 28 days, unless of course you want them to fall off.

 

[Richard C]

Sorry I seemed to have missed the intermediate posts somehow ; makes more sense now

You need to check your actual sq/m tile weight; depending on the tiles 8mm thick ceramic could be marginal over plaster. If you use a quick set render, time before tiling is drastically shortened but it’s not chaep. If tile weight OK, alternative is to board out to the level of existing plaster or strip the lot back & board over the brick.

You must acrylic prime plaster/plasterboard when using powder addy; Trav will need sealing.

 

[tictic]

Ardex a45...

 

[Maxsys]

They travertine effect ceramic tiles.

Richard these won't need sealing

 

[Richard C]

They travertine effect ceramic tiles.

Richard these won't need sealing

No your right, missed that.