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- 5 Jan 2005
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It's been a while since I last posted; April 05 (ish)
Let me introduce myself a little; I'm an electrical maintenance engineer at a major beverage producer from Ireland which is packaged in England yet I live in Wales so just missing a Scottish link. I've done house-bashing, predominantly factory-bashing, mainly automation and plcs but was involved in factory services such as ammonia refrigeration, compressed air and vacuum. Have done a little plumbing (factory based) and am now adding to my central heating!
I've read through all/most of the search results on this site relating to soldering copper pipe (showing willing).
I've practised and practised with 15 and 22mm joints, tees, elbows, etc... with hood results... thanks probably to many years of intricate electrical soldering and some refrigeration brazing numerous years ago.
In the results I found conflicting comments on heating the fittings; some say start at the bottom as heat rises... some say start at the top so you don't boil the flux/solder. I was also told to only heat the pipe to conduct heat to the cup. Which is the textbook/correct way?
Why do people add solder to solder ring fittings when the solder is 'built in' (unless overheated and it drains out)?
As a relative beginner I find I prefer end feed as I feel I have better control.
I use a Bernzomatic TS839 on propane or pencil flame 680W brass torch on butane mix. Is there an ideal setting for these such as flame length?
Finally(!)... I read and see (ie...on YouTube) that you should flux both pipe and fitting which is also contradicted saying that only the pipe should be fluxed. Pipe only seems better so no flux enters piping. Please clarify.
I'm sure I will probably get conflicting responses. Is it just a case of 'whichever way suits each individual' or 'go with whatever works for you',... I'm just looking for textbook or proven methods.
I'm a big fan of retro methods... years of proven reliability of copper and solder... yet welcome the relatively new plastic era but until 20/30 years proven will stick with what grandpa did.
Many thanks in advance. Your time, effort and sharing of trade knowledge is greatly appreciated in advance. I just want to do it right... you do it right then you do it only once - Richie
Let me introduce myself a little; I'm an electrical maintenance engineer at a major beverage producer from Ireland which is packaged in England yet I live in Wales so just missing a Scottish link. I've done house-bashing, predominantly factory-bashing, mainly automation and plcs but was involved in factory services such as ammonia refrigeration, compressed air and vacuum. Have done a little plumbing (factory based) and am now adding to my central heating!
I've read through all/most of the search results on this site relating to soldering copper pipe (showing willing).
I've practised and practised with 15 and 22mm joints, tees, elbows, etc... with hood results... thanks probably to many years of intricate electrical soldering and some refrigeration brazing numerous years ago.
In the results I found conflicting comments on heating the fittings; some say start at the bottom as heat rises... some say start at the top so you don't boil the flux/solder. I was also told to only heat the pipe to conduct heat to the cup. Which is the textbook/correct way?
Why do people add solder to solder ring fittings when the solder is 'built in' (unless overheated and it drains out)?
As a relative beginner I find I prefer end feed as I feel I have better control.
I use a Bernzomatic TS839 on propane or pencil flame 680W brass torch on butane mix. Is there an ideal setting for these such as flame length?
Finally(!)... I read and see (ie...on YouTube) that you should flux both pipe and fitting which is also contradicted saying that only the pipe should be fluxed. Pipe only seems better so no flux enters piping. Please clarify.
I'm sure I will probably get conflicting responses. Is it just a case of 'whichever way suits each individual' or 'go with whatever works for you',... I'm just looking for textbook or proven methods.
I'm a big fan of retro methods... years of proven reliability of copper and solder... yet welcome the relatively new plastic era but until 20/30 years proven will stick with what grandpa did.
Many thanks in advance. Your time, effort and sharing of trade knowledge is greatly appreciated in advance. I just want to do it right... you do it right then you do it only once - Richie