Real wood kitchen worktops.

[chris rushton]

I have built a new kitchen and used Wickes wooden worktops. They had numerous coats of teak oil until i found out due wickes misinformation that i should have used linseed oil! So, numerous coats of linseed oil, sanding, blood, sweat and tears and the wife complains, "I thought they would be shiny" . Does anyone have any professional advice? thanks for your help.

 

[ic1927]

Liberon finishing oil, the more coats you apply, the shinier it gets, suitable for worktops/food preparation surfaces.

 

[Doggit]

Teak oil (or danish oil) is normally used for sealing oak worktops, but so is linseed oil, so who told you that teak oil was wrong.

 

[chris rushton]

Hi. When we first asked about the difference in finish compared to the showroom, Wickes said that Linseed oil should have been used. The wood is described as Beech. Thanks.

 

[Doggit]

If you do some research on the web, you'll find they're all okay, so what exactly is the problem. Did you like the finish on the teak oil, an just change it because Wickes told you differently. What sort of finish have you got from the linseed oil, and what grade sandpaper did you use before oiling it.

 

[chris rushton]

I used 180 grit. My wife wants shiny surfaces.

 

[Doggit]

If you sand it too fine, the oil can't get into the wood, but 180 was okay. I normally use Teak oil, and that's a mid sheen on oak. I've got some Osmo hard wax oil to try next time, and that's neutral, but you can get a wax finish to buff it up. I've used boiled linseed oil on bare brickwork, and that comes up flat, so I assume that's the finish you've currently got. It might require a light sanding, and then go over with danish oil, but you could try just continuing with danish oil for your next coat to see if you can get a shiny surface.

 

[chappers]

Hope you used boiled linseed oil as raw oil doesn't ever dry and to be honest even boiled can stay tacky for weeks.
My favourite if you want a gloss finish is Junckers rustic oil. usually takes about 4 coats minimum before it leaves a gloss finish.
I've never managed to get a true gloss finish with Danish oil

 

[foxhole]

Should have used osmo top oil, great results and far outlasts, danish , linseed etc.

 

[chappers]

yep very similar to junckers rustic, but be careful what woods you use them on some of the variants are slightly pigmented, whereas Junckers isn't.

 

[chris rushton]

Thanks guys

 

[opps]

I got fed up with constantly re-sanding and oiling our beech worktops.

I ended up spraying them with clear acid cat in the end.

The big advantage was the drying time, I applied 4 coats in one day and started using them the next day. I went for a 25% sheen, but if you are feeling brave, you can go up to 90%

Downside- acid cat is pretty toxic whilst spraying.

This what I used.

https://woodfinishes.co/collections/isf-coatings/products/acid-catalyst-lacquer

Oh, BTW, when using Danish, etc, wet your rags with water after use. There is a risk of spontaneous combustion if you don't dispose of them properly.

 

[Doggit]

That was really interesting opps, I've never come across that before. I've been looking at it, and came across this piece that others may find a bit more imformative. But what did you use to spray with, and why do you need to be brave to go for a 90% sheen please.

 

[opps]

Hi Doggit,

I sprayed the worktops using a Fuji HVLP turbine unit.

90% sheen- You would need a super clean environment and spraying skills in excess of mine. 25% sheen is more forgiving of things like overspray drying and landing on your newly sprayed finish.

The ISF acid cat is the only clear one that I could find which is suitable for worktops. Morrells don't make one but other firms might.

I believe that epoxy resin is even more durable and offers a much higher build but I haven't used it.

http://www.easycomposites.co.uk/#!/...ssCast-Clear-Epoxy-Surface-Coating-Resin.html

 

[Doggit]

Opps, you've opened my eyes to a world of possibilities, and I'd like to thank you very much for that. I'd looked at the resin for floors, but hadn't though about using it for the oak worktops, so just found my next learning curve.