recommended chainsaw

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i am needing to buy a chainsaw as have gigantic laurel and leylandii hedge plus many conifers to fell and have no idea where to start. i have a very limited budget so wondered if anyone has a low budget recommendation on a chainsaw suitable for the job and a woman to use ie not too heavy!
thanks
liz
 
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Start by not buying a chainsaw, haven't you seen Scarface, Texas Chainsaw Massacre, Texas Chainsaw Massacre 2 etc etc

They are dangerous!

You'll be safer with a big old axe.
 
Start by not buying a chainsaw, haven't you seen Scarface, Texas Chainsaw Massacre, Texas Chainsaw Massacre 2 etc etc

They are dangerous!

You'll be safer with a big old axe.

A big old axe!? Haven't you seen The Shining? :eek: lol

A recipicating saw with a pruning blade will do the job a bit safer - and AFAIK, these have not been used in any movie to kill people with. :LOL: :LOL:

But sledgehammer and nut comes to mind. Use a hand saw - normal one for thinner branches, and a bow saw for thicker ones
 
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A reciprocating saw, even with pruning blade is a bit of a pain, the blade doesn't move far enough to clear the saw dust if the branch is very thick. A hand saw like these are VERY effective, and professionals will use them in preference to a chainsaw in many instances.

Electric chainsaws are relatively cheap, and Alko, Ryobi, Makita are reasonable makes. The problem is, it doesn't stop there. The cutters need frequent sharpening, so you need files, bar vice or chainvice, chain oil, gloves, trousers, helmet, and the list goes on. If you are cutting near the ground (felling?) the cutters have to go through bark which has grit particles splashed onto it by the rain.

I have a very large hedge, and a long handled pruning saw, and a Silky are easier to maintain it than a chainsaw IMO.

Axes can pull your shoulder or elbow unless you are young and fit.

Where are the trees situated, and how big are they? Leylandii are a difficult tree to deal with, and if you have to get off the ground, it is a whole different ball game. Trees weigh a lot, and can do surprising things on the way down.

Can you post a picture?
 
got to agree with all the guys and oilman about the hand saw. We use them a lot. We only use a chainsaw as a last resort.

One thing i dont agree with is the comments about electric chainsaws. They are underpowered and this makes them dangerous. Bloody things should be banned. You also need to be able to sharpen a chainsaw very reguarly.

Try a local tree surgeon. For what you spend out on some gear it will probably cover the cost.
 
One thing i dont agree with is the comments about electric chainsaws.

What comments don't you agree with?

Could it be:

Electric chainsaws are relatively cheap, and Alko, Ryobi, Makita are reasonable makes.
?

since there is nothing else in the previous posts which conflicts with your statement that they are dangerous. (But so is a carving knife).
 
sorry oilman, i thought you were recomending them. Crossed wires old chap
 
They have their place and are a useful tool, but unlike a Silky, which is ready to run and makes no noise, they need a whole support wardrobe and training over several days.
 
yes they do need all the protective kit, (which funnily enough the sheds never seem to sell) and considered by many in the industry as dangerous because of that
 
yes they do need all the protective kit, (which funnily enough the sheds never seem to sell)

B&Q have finally started selling chainsaw PPE. Gloves, Troosers, helmets and goggles.

No idea how durable they are, but I'm asuming they're subject to some BSA, kite-mark thingumy.
 
I would save your pennies up and get a pro in. if you think your trees look big now wait until you have them in bits in your garden :( A pro will have a shredder thingy which makes the removal of debris a cinch.

Chainsaw is a no no in my book, I am amazed that the sheds still sell them.
 

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