Recommended replacement shower pump

[Rob_Quads]

My shower bump has sprung a leak.

Its always been quite noisy and can't find much mention of it on the internet so think its quite old so would prefer to replace it rather than attempt to fix it.

The markings on the pump are

NewTeam KP7155
mrc232dpa352d/r
265w
FLA 2.1

Any suggestions on a suitable replacement? What does FLA mean in this context?

The only mention i have seen is someone recommending a Monsoon Standard 2.0 bar Twin which is quite expensive.

 

[Richard C]

The only mention i have seen is someone recommending a Monsoon Standard 2.0 bar Twin which is quite expensive. Any suggestions on a suitable replacement?

Depends how you define expensive; they aren’t the cheapest but are in a different league to most budget pumps & quieter too. Slightly cheaper & also very good are Salamander. These are the only two makes I have experience with but others have been mentioned on the forum before.

What does FLA mean in this context?

If it’s shown on the pump plate in conjunction with the 265 watt motor rating, my guess would be it’s the maximum current, i.e 2.1 Full Load Amps; but I’m not 100% sure! Make sure you get the corrent pump for your system design.

 

[Technotim]

If you have a look here here is all the replacement models currently available, http://www.new-team-pumps.co.uk/shower-pump-collection.html If you have one of the jetforce models then you are best to replace this like for like as the are configured with all the connections at one end, and you will have plumbing to do, if it is any other models then you can quite easily fit another brand that is much quieter.

I would call the number on the website they are really helpful.

 

[Rob_Quads]

Thanks for the info.

I had just noticed the JetForce which do look like the new version of what I already have.

Re-piping is not a problem as its all nicely isolated and happy enoough to do this myself.

Looking at the JetForce its hard to see why they justify such a price increase over the other models. Is it a much quieter model?

Ours feeds only a single shower so it may currently be an overkill as I think the JetForce are designed for multiple showers.

 

[Technotim]

The New team jetforce is a great pump from durability point of veiw but is is really noisy and as you say expensive, If you are prepared to repipe then do not use the duraspeed or any other NT product as none are continuously rated.

Look at the rsp50 as a good quiet pump as long as you are prepared to fit a Surrey Flange.
http://www.salamander-pumps.com/rsp50-twin-shower-pump.html

if you do not want to use a flange then a Salamander CT50 or Stuart Turner shower mate as neither manufacturer say you have to use a flange but it is still reccomended.
Bear in mind that both CT50 and the shower mate are noisy compared with the RSP50.

 

[Rob_Quads]

Not sure I really want to do that much plumbing so I don't think I am going to manage to get a Surrey Flange in. I'm happy to repipe the part around the pump but not really the rest of it as that would be a major bit of re-working.

Below is a picture to show how my current pump (JetForce).

I've had a read of the instructions for the RSP50 and CT50 but they both appear to have the same requirements...

The best hot connection from the cylinder is either
• A 3⁄4" NO STOP ESSEX FLANGE (see Figure 5) or
• Alternatively a Salamander S flange or other
approved top entry flanges (see column 3 page 10).
• Never fit to top entry flange if the pump is fitted above
the cylinder.

 

[Richard C]

if you do not want to use a flange then a Salamander CT50 or Stuart Turner shower mate as neither manufacturer say you have to use a flange but it is still reccomended.

You would be ill advised to install any pump without an anti-aeration flange. Air in the water will not only lead to air locks in the system pipe work but causes cavitation on the pump impeller leading to pitting on the surface &, in severe cases, can actually melt it; & that’s not just plastic impellers it affects either.

ALL pump manufacturers require an air free hot water supply & the best way of achieving this is via a proprietary anti-aeration flange, either top entry (Warrix, Surry, S flange) but in almost every case, pump manufacturers preferred fitting is a side entry Essex no stop flange. The minimum requirement is to tee off the bottom of a rising offset in the top of the cylinder which also incorporates the vent but this is less than satisfactory & no less agro then fitting a proprietary flange.

 

[Richard C]

double post

 

[Richard C]

I've had a read of the instructions for the RSP50 and CT50 but they both appear to have the same requirements...

The best hot connection from the cylinder is either
• A 3⁄4" NO STOP ESSEX FLANGE (see Figure 5) or
• Alternatively a Salamander S flange or other
approved top entry flanges (see column 3 page 10).
• Never fit to top entry flange if the pump is fitted above
the cylinder.

Didn't check for replies before re-posting but can see youve been checking; the pump supply would also benefit considerably from being in 22mm even if you reduce that to 15mm after the pump.
Donlt know how old your pump is but your current plumbing might have something to do with it's demise.

 

[Rob_Quads]

Not sure the plumbing is to blame for the failure more age as I am pretty sure that the pump is probably 12+ years old.

Also find it confusing that you say you need to feed the pump 22m but most of the pumps are supplied with 15mm push-fit for inlet and outlet

 

[Richard C]

Not sure the plumbing is to blame for the failure more age as I am pretty sure that the pump is probably 12+ years old.

Well I suppose you can't really complain at that But I would certainly take the oportunity to give the new pump a better supply.

 

[Richard C]

Also find it confusing that you say you need to feed the pump 22m but most of the pumps are supplied with 15mm push-fit for inlet and outlet

Any half decent pump will come with 22mm fittings not 15mm.

 

[Technotim]

You know what I would totally agree with what Richard is saying BUT! There is a but this pump is a weird one the jetforce models seem to out last all other pumps in durability, they are made by Stuart Turner for New Team and I have customers calling that have had them for 20 years + before needing to replace them.

If you look at the installation instructions the can have 15mm taken off the vent pipe with no flange, as long as it is 1m below the cold water storage tank and below the expansion tee.
see here http://www.new-team-pumps.co.uk/Pum...Newteam Installation Guide Jetforce Pumps.pdf

If you want to save yourself plumbing swap like for like if you want a quiet pump with a better flow then install a flange.

 

[Rob_Quads]

Are the top of cylinders a standard size i.e. it 'should' just be a case of undoing the current valve on the top and replacing it with a S-Flange and then piping down to the pump and funishing with a 22-15 reducer?

I'm just not sure there is enough movement in the pipe above the cylinder to fit in the valve without having to redo the all of the pipework around the T

 

[Technotim]

The cylinders are not always a standard size but are normally 28mm if that is the case then it is as simple as you discribed.

I cannot see in the picture as the emmersion electrical cover is in the way but have a look and see if there is a reducer to 22mm or a bush at the top of the cylinder.