redoing the damp proofing on my floor

mgx

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Our lower ground floor flat (built early 1970's) is slab and screed. We pulled up the 70mm screed (in which water, radiator, electrics, phone and television were all routed in pipes) in half (40sqm, one large L shaped room) as part of a gut and refurb (moving kitchen, redoing plumbing, rewire, etc) - we're installing wet UFH (20mm of kingspan, then UFH and 60mm of screed).

I found that between the slab and screed is a layer of bitumen - this is the damp proofing - well, due to years of occasional grey water leaking from a downpipe in one corner, it looks like the bitumen had eroded in parts - some of the steel pipes for the electrics were substantially corroded. This might explain why the underlay from the carpet we ripped up was damp (yuck). We'll fix the downpipe (ABS grey water into a steel pipe, without a, or long gone. seal). There is DPC around the walls (breeze blocks) but it is not always protruding far enough (in a few places, can't see it at all). Also there is no DPC around the pylons (holding the building up :)). It looks like the bitumen goes under the DPC (either after the walls were built or before, anyone?)

What's the best way to put the damp proofing back in? It seems either to fully put bitumen back in, but this would mean to strip back all of the existing bitumen - not the easiest task because the slab is not smooth, has quite a lot of ribs in it. I thought to use cromaprufe around all the edges (in generous amounts) to reseal the DPC at the walls, with a ~10-15cm border on the slab, then to use DPM and join the DPM to the bitumen border (the DPM can run over some of the old bitumen and I can use some sand to fill in some of the gaps, etc) - is thus possible (e.g. how do I fix the DPM to the cromaprufe, or do I just lap some of it over the DPM)? Advice much appreciated!

Also, does it matter about the parts where the DPC is not protruding from the brickwork?

(I am doing the insulation and UFH pipes, then we are getting a pro to screed the floor - don't trust myself on that!)
 
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Cant see the internal walls being built off the slab so bitumen after the dpc.

Why not just the cromaprufe all over the floor, its what its for. 2 or three coats, will stick to the old bitumen and create a good seal. Go up the wall approx 2-3 course to cover the old dpc.
 
Why acrylic leveler? surely if the floor is damp it would break it down?, I would prefer to use a cement based 'wet screed' then liqiud DPM
 
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Not directed at you fella, just seems strange to me to use a water based material in a damp situation....
 
Thanks for the replies. The existing bitumen may have leveller under it, as it does have some crumbly bits. It would be a nightmare to try and lift all of that because as you can imagine it is embedded in the ribs and uneven slab surface. I was also a bit worried about putting pruf over the whole floor given that the previous one had broken down a bit due to some water ingress, and I already had a couple of rolls of DPM spare to use. But I think I will try and clean it up as a much as possible, then put a layer of pruf, then some levelling, then put the DPM over this, then the insulation on that - that should give two layers of protection - the DPM seems more robust to me than the pruf.
 

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