Redring 650 Electric shower no power

[diybot]

As suggested-I have replaced my old Redring with the same model-the old shower was leaking and the solenoid was faulty so I decided to replace-But I have no power-My old shower did have the 4 buttons light when pressed but this one there is no lighting up at all-The isolater light is one(the orange light is on) I cant pull/switch the isolater off but has always been like that with the old shower. I have put all cables back in exactly the same places as the old unit-Blue left, green middle and brown on the right-Anyone have any ideas whats wrong? Thanks for reading...

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Check you have not got a loose conductor and also check you have not trapped the insulation of the conductor within the terminal.
Also change that faulty pull cord isolator, the fact it does not turn off is dangerous.

 

[riveralt]

Assuming you have correctly wired the new shower then....
If you have a multi-meter you should check the voltage at the shower incoming LNE.
Though I would suspect that your pull switch isolator has passed its self by date and needs replacing.
With the power off check the cables at the isolator probably a fried neutral.
If nothing obvious then with the power back on and using 'your' multi-meter check for LNE on both the supply and load sides.

 

[diybot]

I presume when u say conductor u are referring to the blue, green and brown wires? Yes it could be trapped insulaton however I did mark the wires witha black line before I pulled them out but there still could be a problem with trapping as this is the variable that I have changed from the old shower.

 

[diybot]

Assuming you have correctly wired the new shower then....
If you have a multi-meter you should check the voltage at the shower incoming LNE.
Though I would suspect that your pull switch isolator has passed its self by date and needs replacing.
With the power off check the cables at the isolator probably a fried neutral.
If nothing obvious then with the power back on and using 'your' multi-meter check for LNE on both the supply and load sides.

I put the 3 wires back EXACTLY the same as the old shower-When I use my multimetre where do u put the red and black prongs? I presume it is on the electrical supply terminal block-is it the live wire? (brown in ths case)
I mean if the old shower lit up, I presume power was reaching the unit so the suspect could indeed be the blue, green or brown or all is not connecting properly.
I will have to replace the isolater unit but presume it is not the problem in this case.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

I presume when u say conductor u are referring to the blue, green and brown wires?

Yes those cables/wires are known as conductors, it does happen if the cable is placed to far within the terminal, that the insulation stops contact, or if there is not enough bare conductor to grip/make contact with the terminal that can also be an issue. The bare conductor must be making good clean contact within the terminal and be fully within it. So no plastic insulation inside and no bare conductor outside.
The best method to prove this would once you have performed a visual inspection then perform continuity testing across all conductors at the terminal screw heads, once confirmed and polarity is verified (these are dead tests, so isolate circuit), then you can energise and test for voltage across the lines.
When testing for voltage with your multimeter, put the setting for AC voltage.
connect the red test lead to the ‘V/ /mA’ jack socket and the black lead to the ‘com’ jack.
Then at the line/live terminal with red probe, to both neutral and CPC/earth with black probe, then test across the neutral (red probe) to CPC (black probe) I suggest that the red probe should always be the probe connected last, when testing for voltage.
You readings should be as so
Line-Neutral= around 240V
Line-CPC/Earth= around 240V
Neutral-CPC/Earth= 0V
This is a live test so be careful.

 

[diybot]

I presume when u say conductor u are referring to the blue, green and brown wires?

Yes those cables/wires are known as conductors, it does happen if the cable is placed to far within the terminal, that the insulation stops contact, or if there is not enough bare conductor to grip/make contact with the terminal that can also be an issue. The bare conductor must be making good clean contact within the terminal and be fully within it. So no plastic insulation inside and no bare conductor outside.
The best method to prove this would once you have performed a visual inspection then perform continuity testing across all conductors at the terminal screw heads, once confirmed and polarity is verified (these are dead tests, so isolate circuit), then you can energise and test for voltage across the lines.
When testing for voltage with your multimeter, put the setting for AC voltage.
connect the red test lead to the ‘V/ /mA’ jack socket and the black lead to the ‘com’ jack.
Then at the line/live terminal with red probe, to both neutral and CPC/earth with black probe, then test across the neutral (red probe) to CPC (black probe) I suggest that the red probe should always be the probe connected last, when testing for voltage.
You readings should be as so
Line-Neutral= around 240V
Line-CPC/Earth= around 240V
Neutral-CPC/Earth= 0V
This is a live test so be careful.

The power would be getting to the unit as I removed the old shower (same model) and there was power going into the old shower.THe old shower was leaking and the solenoid was not functioning. So I replaced like for like-So therefore what could be wrong?-I have checked and rechecked the three wires I presume there is contact and there is no insulation between the wires and the block-they are not loose-So what do you think is wrong? There is a problem that I bought the unit off ebay so I cant simply run down to the shops and ask for replacement- is it faulty? thanks for your help....

 

[diybot]

I presume when u say conductor u are referring to the blue, green and brown wires?

Yes those cables/wires are known as conductors, it does happen if the cable is placed to far within the terminal, that the insulation stops contact, or if there is not enough bare conductor to grip/make contact with the terminal that can also be an issue. The bare conductor must be making good clean contact within the terminal and be fully within it. So no plastic insulation inside and no bare conductor outside.
The best method to prove this would once you have performed a visual inspection then perform continuity testing across all conductors at the terminal screw heads, once confirmed and polarity is verified (these are dead tests, so isolate circuit), then you can energise and test for voltage across the lines.
When testing for voltage with your multimeter, put the setting for AC voltage.
connect the red test lead to the ‘V/ /mA’ jack socket and the black lead to the ‘com’ jack.
Then at the line/live terminal with red probe, to both neutral and CPC/earth with black probe, then test across the neutral (red probe) to CPC (black probe) I suggest that the red probe should always be the probe connected last, when testing for voltage.
You readings should be as so
Line-Neutral= around 240V
Line-CPC/Earth= around 240V
Neutral-CPC/Earth= 0V
This is a live test so be careful.

The power would be getting to the unit as I removed the old shower (same model) and there was power going into the old shower.THe old shower was leaking and the solenoid was not functioning. So I replaced like for like-So therefore what could be wrong?-I have checked and rechecked the three wires I presume there is contact and there is no insulation between the wires and the block-they are not loose-So what do you think is wrong? There is a problem that I bought the unit off ebay so I cant simply run down to the shops and ask for replacement- is it faulty? thanks for your help....

As I thought power is gettimg to the unit-It has been checked over as I had plumbing work to be done and the guy said he couldn't understand why the shower wasn't workng as what I have done was correct.
Has anyone have any ideas why the shower is not workng?

 

[seco services]

Are you getting power to the pcb ?
More likley a pcb fault on this model.

 

[diybot]

Are you getting power to the pcb ?
More likley a pcb fault on this model.

Do you think the pcb could have been damaged in transit? The guy said the shower was working before he sent the shower. When the plumber tested there was power to all components but I think it is the pcb.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

If you are getting voltage reading of around 240V at live-neutral and live to earth, then the shower is faulty, so return the shower, I would not use ebay for these type of items. But use a trusted local supplier.