Refilling System.

[bigzed]

Hi guys, I would appreciate a little help to make sure I do this the best way. The system is presently completely empty and I'm going to be refilling it this weekend. Thing is, is it better to bleed the radiators starting at the furthest away downstairs and then working back towards the boiler. I would then bleed the pump, magnaclean and finally the little air-bleed at the top of the boiler pipework. What is the best sort of inhibitor to use and is there a hard and fast rule as to how much to use ? I have 4 1200x600 rads, a single 1200x600 and a single 400x600.
The system is an open-vented type btw just heating radiators only using an Ideal Classic HE12.

Also, on another note, is it possible ( and can I do it myself if I inform the LABC ) to wire the boiler in such a way that the pilot light will stay on ( like my old boiler used to do ) when the system isn't actually running ? When the thermostat calls for heat, the boiler has to light the pilot light first, then it starts the main burner. I was thinking that a, the igniter isn't going to last long if it's constantly having to light the pilot and b, when we're out and don't need any heat, if it gets to freezing temperatures outside, I was worried about the boiler freezing up.

I looked through the wiring schematics in the boiler manual and it appears that the installer has wired it correctly, it just seems funny that the pilot light isn't on unless the boiler is heating the water.

Thanks very much in advance for any replies.

 

[Boilerman2]

when venting start downstairs and finish upstairs I personally prefer Fernox Inhibitor and NO YOU CANT REWIRE YER BOILER TO LEAVE THE PILOT ON, ITS DESIGNED TO LIGHT UP AUTOMATICALLY Do you know how much gas a standing pilot WASTES every year

 

[bengasman]

Before you put inhibitor in, run it for a while with cleaner.
I have had very good results with hyperflush and fernox f3. As the the system will not be on a lot with the mild weather, I recommend hyperflush as it can stay in for a month.

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

Radiators, bleed lowest first, working the to top of the house. There may still be some air trapped in the pipework, I usually run mine with boiler stat turned to off, so the water can circulate and shift any air, then allow the boiler to light when things have settled.

Inhibitor, Fernox or Sentinel, 1 bottle should be enough I would think.

Boiler, I dont think any have a permanent pilot now. They are designed so the ignition lights the burner when boiler gets call for heat. You cant alter this so dont even try, unless you fancy buying a new boiler, which would be the same anyway.... If frost damage is a concern, fit a frost stat to your system, this will override the programmer and switch the system on when the temperature at the frost stat gets low enough.

 

[bigzed]

when venting start downstairs and finish upstairs I personally prefer Fernox Inhibitor and NO YOU CANT REWIRE YER BOILER TO LEAVE THE PILOT ON, ITS DESIGNED TO LIGHT UP AUTOMATICALLY Do you know how much gas a standing pilot WASTES every year

Lol, OK I won't try that then. That's almost as bad as getting the little " see me after school" in red ink at the bottom of an essay.

Before you put inhibitor in, run it for a while with cleaner.
I have had very good results with hyperflush and fernox f3. As the the system will not be on a lot with the mild weather, I recommend hyperflush as it can stay in for a month.

So run for a month with fernox f3, drain and refill with fernox inhibitor. Which is the best to go for, MB1 or F1 ? *EDIT* The system was pretty clean when I emptied it and I've renewed four of the radiators as well as about 60% of the pipework, so would a month still be required for the cleaner ?

Thanks very much for the replies lads, mucho appreciated.

 

[doitall]

If the system was clean, why the need for a cleaner, just flush it out, test for leaks and add the inhibitor.

You would be better spending your money on a "Magnaclean" I see you have one already.

 

[bigzed]

There may still be some air trapped in the pipework, I usually run mine with boiler stat turned to off, so the water can circulate and shift any air, then allow the boiler to light when things have settled.

Good idea, I'll do that.

If frost damage is a concern, fit a frost stat to your system, this will override the programmer and switch the system on when the temperature at the frost stat gets low enough.

I presume these would be wired in parallel with the existing stat ? I don't have a seperate timer on my system, I use one of those "all in one" room stats.

 

[bigzed]

If the system was clean, why the need for a cleaner, just flush it out, test for leaks and add the inhibitor.

You would be better spending your money on a "Magnaclean"

I was wondering if the cleaner was necessary, that's why I asked here, to get the experts opinion. I'm not worried about spending a few quid on a bottle of cleaner if it's going to help in the future. I did fit a magnaclean as part of the work I did to revamp the system. I did mention it in my original post, sorry if I wasn't too clear and thanks very much for the reply.

I see that you noticed already whilst I was writing my reply

 

[doitall]

Only you know how clean it was, so your shout, but I would just flush it out. I also believe that cleaners on old radiators can do more harm than good.

If you are worried about temperatures, have a look at the Drayton Digistat 3, programmable room stat. you can set the temperature for 6 different time zones in any 24 hour period.

Example.

15c at 6:00
10c at 10:00
12c at 14:00
14c at 16;30
20c at 17:30
7c at 23:00

and the boiler does just that, turning itself on as required. and you can program the weekends different to the week days.

the 7c gives you the frost protection.

 

[bigzed]

Only you know how clean it was, so your shout, but I would just flush it out. I also believe that cleaners on old radiators can do more harm than good.

Actually, even thought the system was pretty clean when I drained it, I have done a lot of soldering, so there will prolly be a lot of flux residue in them there pipes so I might just leave a cleaner in there for a couple of weeks or so to be safe.

If you are worried about temperatures, have a look at the Drayton Digistat 3, programmable room stat. you can set the temperature for 6 different time zones in any 24 hour period

Thats the type I have already, I forgot that I can of course set the temps to avoid frosting on the colder days when we aren't in the house.

Thanks again for all your help.