Refurbishing Paramo No.1 bench / workshop vice

[JONXLR8]

I've been given this lovely little vice and am going to have a go at refurbishing it myself.

My first question is, what's the best way of removing the retaining pin from the screw thread shaft? Should I use a pin punch to knock it all the way through, or just partially through then rotate and pull out with some grips? It's hard to tell but it appears there isn't quite enough room in the cavity behind it to knock it all the way through.

Assuming it will be partly damaged in the removal process, how am I best to find a replacement? Is a split pin a suitable replacement or should I be looking for a like for like replacement?

If anyone's interested I'll chart my progress of its refurbishment on this thread.

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

If when you knock it out with a punch, is there room behind for it to be driven all the way out?

 

[opps]

I would love to know how you get on. A few years ago I was offered an old vice. The quick release mechanism wasn't working. I went to look at it and released that it weighed about 20-25Kg. I declined the generous offer.

 

[JONXLR8]

If when you knock it out with a punch, is there room behind for it to be driven all the way out?

It's hard to tell. There's definitely enough space behind (above) where the spring sits. It looks like the pin could fit out, but it would be very close to the 'shoulder' of the casting behind it. I suppose if there is enough room but it's a bit tight then there will be a bit of wiggle room in terms of spring compression to free up a few mm?

 

[opps]

Someone managed to drive the pin in. I would guess that you need to drive it though and rotate the shaft and pull the pin out with mole grips.

 

[lostinthelight]

If theres not room to drive all the way out, drive enough to get a vise grips on to use a screwdriver as a lever against the end of the jaws using the side of the channel as a fulcrum.
A suitable diameter nail would replace it if you did damage it as the spring tension holds it in place

 

[Deleted member 174758]

The Record and Parkinson vices I've repaired in the past always seemed to have split pins, so one of those would do - after all the pin is just there to retain the washer which tensions the spring so what you use is really not that critical

A few years ago I was offered an old vice. The quick release mechanism wasn't working

The flat, coiled spring is often what goes on them, either it breaks, or the rivets fail. Neither is a difficult fix (although it helps if you have a local spring maker like one guy I know in the next valley). On the other hand whilstv ou can live with a bit of slop in a vice, the other thing which goes wrong is the half nut - if that is badly worn or stripped or the thread is broken the vice can be scrap. You can ever live with welded-up (repaired) jaws on woodworking vices by adding your own pads to compensate

 

[JONXLR8]

Someone managed to drive the pin in. I would guess that you need to drive it though and rotate the shaft and pull the pin out with mole grips.

Thanks. I did exactly this and it worked a treat. Well I used my tongue and groove pliers actually as it was a better fit.

So it's completely stripped now and I've given it a quick once over with some appropriate steel wire hand brushes and a cup brush in a drill.

The paint on it is pretty tough. Ideally how much should I actually remove? Is it okay to just remove any loose flaky and corroded areas before prepping for paint? I've got some white vinegar so is there any benefit in me soaking it in that to try and remove more paint and grime from the harder to reach bits?

I don't intend on removing the jaws as both they and the screws holding them in appear to be in very good condition.

I've got some degreaser for prepping before paint.

I intend to prime with Zingaspray before spraying with BS381C 110 Roundel Blue, which is likely what the original colour is.