'Refuse area' paving querieodical.

[Northbeach]

As part of my fencing 'project', I am to add a small 6' x 6' paved area specifically for the ever pulsating collection of eco bins we have around these parts.
I will be using one side of an existing fence (back garden) which I will then continue to run down the length of the front garden (24 meters ish).
From this run I will take another panel at 90 degrees - almost forming a box (following the existing panel and footpath this will be more like a box pushed to one side - a diamond almost).

I have dug out a couple of inches down (occasionally hitting concrete as there are kerbs running on the side of the footpath) but deeper at the other end as this bit of land ran uphill). I've got it fairly flat and level; questions are:

1: Do I need to slant this slightly for when it rains?
2: Due to the odd diamond shape of this area how would I set the new paving slabs...I'm thinking an awful lot of angle grinding should I follow the sides - it's hardly going to be seen by anyone, merely for storing my bins.
3: I'll need to add polythene to the ground to prevent weeds growing though...?
4: How much of a concrete base would I need to add...an inch or two?

Have a look at this 'fantastic' image done on a high spec piece of software!!:

Hope you can help.
Cheers.
NB

 

[Thermo]

1:Yes put a fall on it, away from any other patio, as any waste that leaks out will be carried onto the nice bit of patio
2:if your not worried about it being seen then set it out the easiest way possible to accomodate the slabs, to avoid the cutting. Also it wont be seen once the bins are on top of it.
3: No need to put a membrane down, weeds dont grow from under the slabs, they grow in the joints in between. point them properly with mortar and you wont have the problem
4:dependent on the slabs, as long as you have a firm compacted earth base, then a 50mm sharp sand screed or if you are using a wet mix to lay each slab, that will be more than adequate. No need to put concrete down, its only for foot traffic, and you wouldnt put concrete down anyway, because if it shifts the whole patio shifts with it.

Nice picture, didnt realise you could upload from the zx spectrum!

 

[Northbeach]

^^ Yes - it's an out-take from Jet Set Willy where he returns to suburbia!

Many thanks - just to confirm however (as I have never laid concrete slabs):

3: No need to put a membrane down, weeds dont grow from under the slabs, they grow in the joints in between. point them properly with mortar and you wont have the problem = Ordinary brick mortar ok?>

4:dependent on the slabs, as long as you have a firm compacted earth base, then a 50mm sharp sand screed or if you are using a wet mix to lay each slab, that will be more than adequate. = what's 'sharp sand screed'!! And wet mix of what?? Sorry - total novice here!
Cheers.

 

[Thermo]

no problems

point them with a semi dry mix of 1:3 cement mortar (have the mix just wet enough so you can squeeze it into a ball in your hands, without leaving residue on your hands. That way you can point it without marking the slabs, and make sure they are dry first)

If the slabs are all of a uniform thickness, then you can lay a bed of sharp sand (thats the one with grit in it!) Lay it over the area and compact it down. then draw a flat edge over it and you will have a level bed. The slabs can simply be laid on that. You will need to use a wet mix ie mortar at the edges to stabalise the edges, but otherwise, thats it. The alternative is to lay each slab on a bed of mortar. Each method takes time, ie the bed method means you have to get your levels right etc, but once done its simply a matter of placing the slabs down and tapping them with a maul (rubber mallet), whereas a wet bed means you have to level each one as you go

hope it makes sense

(i was thinking more of binman rather than jetsetwilly!)

 

[Northbeach]

Cheers Thermo - I'll go with the sharp sand method; as I'm going to 'tilt' this towards the path (and hence the nearby drain) for when the rain pours, can I angle it using the sharp sand i.e. more sand at one end rather than angling the current soil base?

1:3 cement mortar

1 part water? As an aside - I'm soon to point a bricked fireplace in the living room and was worried (from a practice run) that the mortar would be left on the bricks - if the bricks are dry and at the correct moisture level (as you mentioned) I should be ok?

You will need to use a wet mix ie mortar at the edges to stabalise the edges...

The same mix as for the pointing? A spot of this on the edges and corners (was worried that too much would mean the whole area would shift as you advised previously).

Again (sorry - I'm not entirely in touch with the terminology!!!):

then draw a flat edge over it

Flat piece of wood pressed down over the area?

Many thanks!