relining stud partition for kitchen wall units

[ajrobb]

I am replacing an 18 year old kitchen in a 1978 house. Some of the old wall units were hung on plasterboard with 10mm backing board fitted between the worktop and the bottom of the wall units. There is no sign of the hanging brackets coming loose.

I plan to reline the stud partition with MR board to take new wall units and a combination boiler (Baxi Duo-Tec 24HE). There will also be electrical sockets above the counter. What stud work, if any, should I add?

Relining will also allow me to conceal new pipes in the partition.

I don't really want to add a layer of plywood behind the entire 12' wall as I'd have to reline the door frame to cater for the extra thickness.

 

[joinerjohn]

Why not work out where the new kitchen units are going and put noggins in at suitable heights? That way you can be safe in the knowledge that your wall/ base units are not going to come off the wall.
As for the pipework, I think it's a bad idea to bury it in the partition. In years to come, you may well forget where the pipes are or even sell the house. Someone will undoubtedly want to put a shelf or picture up and screw through the hidden pipes. Could be a nightmare scenario for someone. Better to surface mount the pipework then box in afterwards. With a bit of careful planning the pipework could go in a corner so it's less obtrusive and easier to box in too.

 

[ajrobb]

On closer inspection, the walls seem to be plasterboard spaced with cardboard. What can I do with this?

 

[noseall]

On closer inspection, the walls seem to be plasterboard spaced with cardboard. What can I do with this?

PARAMOUNT PARTITION WALLING AAAAAGH!

Knock it down and build a proper partition.

 

[ajrobb]

Knock it down and build a proper partition.

Believe me, I want to. Unfortunately the stairs run up the other side. I have nearly 50mm above the wall units. I have a larder at one end and an external wall at the other. I might fit a 40x100 across the top of the larder to the wall and screw the tops of the wall units to that.

I'm half tempted to take the stairs out and redo the whole partition on both floors. Same stuff around the bathroom - you practically can hear people think!

 

[noseall]

One of the walls in my kitchen is a stud wall. I sheeted the whole thing in 18mm wbp plywood apart from a visible 10" at the top (visible above the wall units) which i plasterboarded and skimmed.

This then gave the fitters the opportunity to fix wherever they wanted. I noticed on more than one occasion where they had re- screwed a couple of brackets. This would have been a pig to do without the freedom of having a ply backer.

 

[ajrobb]

Rather than remove the stairs! I'll line the kitchen wall with plywood attached to what few studs there are and plasterboard over that. I'm hoping there is sufficient studding at the top of the wall. I'll add furring strips to bring the door frame to the new thickness and fit new architrave. The door opens out into the other room so won't need rehanging. With some Swedish putty, the join around the door frame shouldn't show. I'll just fix plasterboard to the plywood, overlapping the joins, I won't try and find studs.

What thickness of plywood?

Should I also fix the plywood to the Paramount partition between studs?

PS Expect to see more postings from me about replacing Paramount partitions around a bathroom.

 

[noseall]

What thickness of plywood?

Should I also fix the plywood to the Paramount partition between studs?

1. 18mm

2. How far apart are the studs? Usually paramount walling has a rail at the top, a rail at the bottom (2.4m apart) and a vertical every 1.2m. This would not be enough as the spacings are too great.

 

[ajrobb]

How far apart are the studs? Usually paramount walling has a rail at the top, a rail at the bottom (2.4m apart) and a vertical every 1.2m. This would not be enough as the spacings are too great.

I've just taken down some Paramount partitions upstairs and there is an 18mm stud nailed to the ceiling and the vertical square studs nailed direct to floorboards. There is a 20-50mm high gap behind skirting boards, which don't reach the floor either. The 18mm studs are nailed to plasterboard (no noggins) with 2 nails about every 400mm. There might be a 50mm square stud between the plasterboards at the bottom but it doesn't stick down below the bottom of the plasterboard.

I assume with Paramount partition you were supposed to attach 18mm stud to the ceiling and 50mm stud to the floor. Cut the partition 25mm shorter than the ceiling height. Drop the partition over the floor stud then push it under the top stud and lift it by 22mm, leaving a 3mm clearance below the ceiling. Fix it to the top, bottom and existing vertical studs then insert and fix the next vertical stud. At least that way you would get a seal between rooms, rather than Wimpey's way of leaving a 50mm gap!

 

[ajrobb]

The ceiling height is 7'6" and the stud spacing is 4'/1200mm and my wall units run 1.8m from the end wall to a larder at the other end. With the wide stud spacing (1200mm), it will be difficult to attach sheets of plywood securely.

I think it will be easier/cheaper to put an 18x144mm softwood plank at ceiling height screwed to the top stud to hang the wall units (not the larder) and an 18mm spacer batten at the bottom of the wall units. I was going to close the 40-50mm top gap with some plinth, so the plank will be hidden.