Remote control roller shutter

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Hello, looking for some knowledgable guidance please :D

Recently fitted a remote control box to a roller shutter. The one push type on fob to go up and down automatically.

Functioning up/down/stop ok. The problem is if you do not press stop after roller shutter is fully open or closed, is that the motor is still drawing power. Is this normal? Crap design if so as I imagine the motor would burn out eventually plus drawing unessesary power when not in use (if you forgot to press stop)

I guess the box is not intelligent enough to know when to cut power to motor. Any advice please, thanks
 
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How do the hardwired controls work when you use those? Do you have to press and hold up/press up and then stop? Or do you press up and then it stops automatically at the top?

If it's either of the first two, chances are there's nothing built in to the roller shutter to tell it that it's and the end of it's travel. If you press and hold up to raise it, does the motor continue to run once it's fully open if you keep up pressed?
 
The ones I'm familiar with usually have end of travel limit switches or sense the change of current in the motor. Any details of the one you've fitted? Was it from a door manufacturer?
 
Thanks for the replies!
@Iggifer Yes it was a press and hold switch to go up/down (rocker switch), when you released button it would stop.

Exaclty like this one:
rocker-switch.jpg


@stillp The electronic box is from Rollerdor, but box was rebranded with their sticker, cant remember the name but would if someone suggests makes.... Found it now Ellard box :)

New shutter fitted about a year ago, I don't know the make on it....

Thanks guys
 
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Does the controller have inputs for limit switches? Does it have a model number?
Thanks for the replies!
@Iggifer Yes it was a press and hold switch to go up/down (rocker switch), when you released button it would stop.
Yes, but if you held the button in the UP position after the door was fully up, would the motor continue to try to run?
 
Does the controller have inputs for limit switches? Does it have a model number?
Thanks for the replies!
@Iggifer Yes it was a press and hold switch to go up/down (rocker switch), when you released button it would stop.
Yes, but if you held the button in the UP position after the door was fully up, would the motor continue to try to run?

Thanks mate, I think it does, its got 5 spare optional terminals. I haven't got the wiring diagram to hand now as its down the garage! Will get it tomorrow.

I did not test the old switch... I took details of old wiring, so I'll post diagram tomorrow! Or wire it back up for the test!
 
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There should be limit switches (little teeny potentiometers) on the actual motor. (if it is the same as mine). If there aren't such then think about putting a couple in (fairly easy job- can use cheap burglar alarm door contacts wired properly)
 
Every one I have worked on had a host of micro switches which would stop it at top, bottom or if anything got in the way. Most the work was because some one had put something too close to the door and blocked the sensor. No one would worry about it being open in the day, then after I had gone home I would get the call door will not close. I would think a limit switch is not working, we got this when the fitters had worked on it, switch was up with the motor and get the cogs one tooth out and one limit switch would fail. But not normally both, either it would not shut fully or would not open fully at the same time as motor not stopping.
 
Hi, thanks for the help! Will check to see if there are limit switches there.
I emailed the supplier to ask why the motor is still drawing power after fully opening/closing:

and this is the reply:

Yes it is normal but it won't stay live for good, the boxes have a 5 minute run timer which means from the last activation of the box it will stay live for 5 minutes to allow the door to open or close depending on how tall it is.
 
Every one I have worked on had a host of micro switches which would stop it at top, bottom or if anything got in the way. Most the work was because some one had put something too close to the door and blocked the sensor. No one would worry about it being open in the day, then after I had gone home I would get the call door will not close. I would think a limit switch is not working, we got this when the fitters had worked on it, switch was up with the motor and get the cogs one tooth out and one limit switch would fail. But not normally both, either it would not shut fully or would not open fully at the same time as motor not stopping.

Good point, I only tested the voltage when the shutter was closed, I'll test when its fully opened.
 
Good luck, I remember all the electricians had the boots with metal plates to stop nails coming through, not because of nails, but we could swing our foot over the fork lift sensor to open the doors, the fitters could never work out how we could open the doors and not them. But first time I came to work on them took me ages to find the limit switches did not think of them being in the motor.
 
Hi, did some testing... The 5 minute timer works fine, so thats a plus.

Tested if power cuts on opening fully, unfortunately it is the same as closing, so I guess there are no switches or both are broken.

No connections in box for switches as mentioned.

Guess I can live with the 5 minute timer if I did forget to press stop, so leave it at that :) Thanks for the help!
 

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The 5 terminals top left are for limit switches. You'd have to read the destructions to find out how to wire it but it gives you a 12v supply to use on one of the terminals for this purpose.
 
The 5 terminals top left are for limit switches. You'd have to read the destructions to find out how to wire it but it gives you a 12v supply to use on one of the terminals for this purpose.
Reading the circuit diagram those terminals are for a hard wired rather than RF controller not limit switches.
Este-puertas-del-obturador-luz-gigante-volumen-l%C3%ADmite-controlador-interruptor-de-puerta-persiana-el%C3%A9ctrica-motor-tap%C3%B3n.jpg_640x640.jpg
the picture shows how the limit switches are inside the motor housing. They are often not wired back to the control panel, but built into the motor.
 

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