Removal of thermostat programmer

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Hi I want to install a tado wireless bridge at the boiler so I need to remove or bridge the old stat. I understand that you connect live and switched live in wago and the just cap off earth and natural in it own connecter where old stat was. What I don't understand is what I do with the SL at the boiler end do I leave it in place so i would have SL from tado receiver and old stat connected to same connertion or remove old SL and cap it off.

It a baxi duo combi boiler

Thanks for any help
 
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You would just disconnect the SL from the boiler to the stat, then isolate everything in the old stat or even better disconnect it from it's source, that may be the boiler or the FCU.

Then just wire the TADO in directly into the boiler.
 
Thanks for the reply just so I got it straight as it a stat programmer no bridge is needed just isolate everything Individually behind the old programmer?
 
All the wired stat does is send a SL back to the boiler to switch on. That can be 1 of 2 ways on the Baxi as it uses a 240v SL, either the live and SL are wired from the boiler block terminals to the common and SL output in the stat if it's dumb or if it's a programmable/smart stat, there could be a Live bridged over to the common within the stat.

If it's just a dumb stat then it'll probably be the former and just needs that disconnected from the boiler's connector block and then the TADO switching is wired in it's place. Get the MI and check and be handy with a multimeter to check everything and then safe isolation before getting in there with a screwdriver.
 
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The stat is a danfoss tp5000 and is wired with live natural earth and SL and a jumper wire

Boiler side has single live natural earth and the SL with the 4 port empty on Boiler terminal block

Then I have 3am fuse switch that I haven't taken off wall yet.

All the cables them self are within the wall and I would rather not remove them.
 
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OK so the TP5000 is the hard wired programmable stat but it is battery powered so there should really only be 2 wires in there - a live (Com) and a NO (SL) ?

1728653540152.png
 
That looks like the receiver back plate and the room stat is wireless (RF)? Can you send a pic of what usually sits on that back plate, both side of it.. Is there another box that has the time/temps on it? Unless there's another TP5000 that Danfoss don't document.

Not that it all really matters as the isolation you'd have to perform is in there anyway. So if it's all been wired properly then the L&N should be powered from the same wall FCU as the boiler is. So the L&N would be disconnected in the FCU and put into a connector block and taped up and the SL disconnected at the boiler and taped or in a connector and taped too. The everything in that back plate is disconnected and can be taped up and placed into the wall
 
Right - ok - it's the TP5000MA SI with the remote sensor pick ups, nothing like Danfoss for making it confusing with multiple model types
 
Thanks for taking the time
It all on same switch as the power go off at stat when I turn it off boiler

not that it matters as you say but here is photo of stat I have just found manual and it's the tp5000 si range think there is rf version but it not this model or setup
17286553019922752899523544471263.jpg
1728655326894496501276955393522.jpg
 
it's the TP5000MA SI with the remote sensor pick ups
;)

yes so ideal if it all turns off at the Fused connection unit (FCU) - isolate the FCU for the boiler at the fuse box - open that up and you'll find 2 sets of wires, one set for the boiler and one set for the programmer. Always best and safest to disconnect the power to the stat from it's source which is in there. Just need to cover the wires (connector block) so they don't touch anything once the FCU is back together. Then pull the SL from the Boiler connector. That can just be cut back and taped and sat somewhere out the way.

Wiring the TADO receiver can all be done @ the boiler.
 
Of course - always work safely - safely isolate and test electrics are isolated before getting in there with screwdrivers etc. If you aren't confident doing that or how the boiler should be wired properly then please get someone who can.
 
Just pulled off fsu and mess of wires in there that's Beyond my skill level, one last thought could I remove the danfoss and wire the Wireless receiver using existing cables
 

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