removing a radiator

[AnonymousImport]

I understand that there should be 2 valve to close when I am trying to remove a radiator, but I can only find 1 valve to close. Should there be a second one and where should I look for it? It is not near the radiator itself.

 

[breezer]

I am not a heating engineer but all radiators must have two valves usually one at each end (sometimes in older radiators diagonally opposite each other.

Also see

//www.diynot.com/forum/viewtopic.php?TopicID=1655

 

[G.Downey]

sometimes (very rare) radiators have been fitted with only one control valve, the other end being connected with a bent M & F connector, in this case you have to drain off the entire system before removing the Rad. Dont understand why anyone would do this, perhaps to save money, ha ha
Valves are all of two quid each at most. Do try and fit a valve when you replace rad. Also its worth looking at getting a set of Radclamps to help future removals, these make radiator removal a lot easier.

 

[Ant]

Are there two pipes feeding the rad? If so there will either be one at each end or two at one end going to a combined flow/return valve. The combined valves usually have a tube going from the valve body to the other end of the rad inside the rad - this was to help disperse water across the rad - rather than flowing straight back down the return pipe and not heating the rad.

 

[georgesoulman]

I also want to remove a radiator but don't want to flood the house. We already have one off (removed by plumbers) and now I want to remove another one in another room. How exactly do you ensure that the valve is 100% switched off. The radiator and pipes are cold (when the others are hot) but all I did was turn the main valve to 1 (it won't go any lower) is this what shuts off the water?

I removed the other small (return?) valve cap and started to turn the tap bit with a pair of pliers. I turned clockwise (like a tap) and after about 5 turns it started getting wet. I reversed the tap bit back to what it was.

Am I doing this right or will I flood the house. Im doing this right now so any help appreciated.


One weird thing is that the rad that is already off the valves appear to be loose, I can move them left/right and they don't feel like they are connected to anything under the floor. I would have thought that if they wer still connected to the CH system the pipes would not move. Again any help appreciated.



Thanks

George

 

[ChrisR]

Last point first - the pipes might feel loose if they are long lengths of copper, or plastic pipes under the floor.

Middle point - the wet valve. On decent valves there is a nut round the spindle bit. Tightening that will usually stop the leak which is up past the spindle. On cheap valves you don't get that extra nut so you're stuffed!

" all I did was turn the main valve to 1 (it won't go any lower) is this what shuts off the water? "

Sounds like you have a thermostatic valve. If it only goes to 1 (and not "0") then that valve WILL OPEN when it gets cold. Proper way to deal with thermo rad valves is to use the plastic cap which came with it (long lost?). You remove the "head" and screw the cap on, which pushes the central pin right down. Sometimes you can use a couple of 5p pieces between your thermostatic head and the pin to push the pin down more definitely.

How can you tell both valves are shut? You can't. Once the rad is off you can screw metal caps (from plumber's merchant) onto the unions, to stop any dribbling from the valve. Most ordinary rad valves are 3/4", and most trv's 1/2", but not all.